Algiers

( Originally Published 1923 )

IT was noon of the 9th of October that I sailed for Algiers, and it was intensely interesting to watch the third and fourth class passengers come aboard carrying their worldly possessions in sacks, and their rations, a loaf or two of bread, tucked under their arms. Some were soldiers with red fez and khaki coat, re-turning to the French North African colonies. There were also Arabs, Jews, Kabyles, Moors, and Negroes,—a mingling of races, a babbling of tongues, the flotsam of a nomadic people.

Cruising on the Mediterranean always was an alluring anticipation for me. I could picture its sapphire blue waters flecked with many sails that were filled by the gentle breezes of a sunny clime. I have now traversed this sea lengthwise from Marseilles to Alexandria, and crosswise from Marseilles to Algiers, and no-where were sails visible, and for very good reasons; for her troubled waters made wise sailors remain in quiet harbors. We had a very rough passage; a gale was blowing and the ship rolled in the trough of the turbulent sea, which even washed the promenade deck. Nearly all the passengers were sick, and only a few of us were spared from the nausea of the sea. However, as we neared Algiers, nature was in a gentler mood and the abrupt coast line was a welcome sight. As we gradually drew nearer, I was interested in watching many a Mohammedan throw his European cap into the sea and don a red fez.

A calm harbor, not unlike the Bay of Naples, welcomed us. We have come from the cloudy days of Northern France to a land of sunshine and blue skies.

The city, amphitheatre-like in form, is terraced on the hillside, tier upon tier. The buildings in the foreground are modern French structures of a uniform height; above these are houses arranged in tiers, and still higher are the villas which enjoy the surroundings of gardens and the foliage of trees, while inter-mingled are the domes of the mosques. The Atlas Mountains in the distance form the background of this very charming panorama. As we disembarked on the quay at the foot of the principal boulevard, an Oriental mob, busy doing nothing, awaited the European tourist. The scene was strangely interesting, a complete change from the European parts from which we had so lately departed. We were at once impressed by the native Arab with his fine features, dignified bearing, and flowing robe, (burnous), unchanged in style from that worn by his forefathers centuries ago; the Kabyles, lighter in color and claiming an ancestry pre-ceding the early Romans ; Arab women in white flowing robes and veiled faces; Negroes with a blackness of skin that is only found among the pure Sudanese and kindred tribes ; Moors, Jews, crossbreeds,—a heterogeneous horde, among which was the white man, the ruling force, confident and commanding, who directs you in French or English to the motor bus awaiting you. An intermingling of an old and a new civilization in a thriving metropolis of France's premier colony, Algeria, which is almost equal to France in size.

Less than a century ago, Ed Djezair (the present city of Algiers) was the rendezvous of pirates who had for centuries preyed upon maritime traffic. Here captive whites of European nations have been sold as slaves, have labored under the lash, and died of privations. This pestiferous condition was finally wiped out by the French in 183o by an expedition under General de Bourmont, and to-day the traveler in this French colony is as safe as in France itself.

We drove to our hotel, located far up the hillside,—a splendid hostelry charmingly located surrounded by lovely gardens and commanding a beautiful view of the sea below, the mountains in the distance, and the near-at-hand villas. One is reminded of southern California, many of the better houses in the immediate vicinity being of the same general colour scheme and character, while the climate and flora are quite the same. There is a luxuriant growth of vegetation and one sees around Pasadena practically the same flowers, shrubs and trees as these : eucalyptus, sycamore, the stately cypress, pepper trees, olives, a lovely native pine, acacia, yucca, palms, figs, bananas, etc.

What a contrast, however, between modern Algiers, (Mustapha Superier) with its splendid well-paved streets, fine buildings, lovely public gardens, and good tram system, the construction of which is due entirely to French enter-prise and progressiveness, and ancient Algiers (Kasbah) immediately adjoining, in which dwell the Arabs, Moors, Negroes, etc. The buildings, four or five stories in height, are constructed along a labyrinth of perplexing and tortuous passageways running in every direction, many ascend by stone steps. These lanes are approximately six feet wide ,but the upper stories of the homes project and nearly meet; in some places they are actually less than a foot apart, and of course practically exclude any and all sunshine. Generally speaking, the exterior of these buildings have blank walls, an occasional small opening barred by a prison-like iron grill in size about sufficient to reveal a face with black, mysterious looking eyes. Entrance is had through a low door, and within is usually a court on which the rooms face, or there may be nothing more than narrow, steep stairs leading to the roof, the stairs well uncovered, and permitting the only light and ventilation for the small, dark adjoining rooms. The rooms are merely small dungeons, holes in the wall, in which lives a dense population of Arabs, Moors, Negroes, cross-breeds, a degenerating people, buried in the mystery of Mohammedan life and customs. Donkeys are the only beasts of burden traversing these exiguous thoroughfares and they are loaded with vegetables, cans, or street offal. Natives are seen squatting in groups supping tiny cups of black coffee. An Asiatic smell permeates the air, recalling days in India, and cats are seen everywhere. Here and there will be found little shops, recesses in the walls, presided over by Arab merchants with frozen features and with a languidness congenital to their race.

There are, however, occasional bright spots ; for example, such as the Mosque-Tomb of the Arab Saint, Sidi-Abd-er-Rahman, a structure older than the modern order of things. Narrow steps and walled passageways lead to interesting terraced courts containing the graves of many past deys and pashas of Algiers. The small mosque with its minaret is all in pure white, kept thus by constant whitewashing. Here may be seen Mohammedan women muffled and draped in white flowing robes, only their piercing black eyes visible through the openings in their veils.

In the lower part of the city is located one of the oldest mosques in all Algiers, the Grand Mosque, Djemae-El-Kebir, built in 1018. A long line of covered marble columns supporting well proportioned arches form the street facade, under which may be seen squatting groups of Islam. Within, in an open court, is a marble fountain enabling the faithful to perform their ablutions as they enter. The interior of this place of worship is rather disappointing and unattractive, filled as it is with columns and arches supporting a low ceiling, the floor covered with pieces of carpet and matting. It is far less imposing and impressive than the beautiful mosques of India, which in reality are walled courts with glorious entrance gates and lovely galleries and balconies enclosing a great paved square, uncovered and open to the clear, blue sky above. Here, however, as elsewhere, the cries of the priests (muezzin) call the faithful to prayer—"God only is Great, there is but one God, and Mohammed is his Prophet. Come to Prayer; Come to Adore; God is Great!"

I was in the Arab Cemetery at Bellcourt when at eleven A.M. the booming of cannon announced "Armistice Day." The bells of the great Cathedral Notre Dame d'Afrique across the ravine, rang out strong and clear while those from the city below mingled their softer tones. From overhead came the droning of a squadron of airplanes flying in formation; about me were the ancient, strange looking graves of Arabs and Kabyles, while among them were women leisurely strolling or sitting in groups and clothed in their baggy, white garments. Were it dusk I might have fancied them ghosts. In the distance were the quiet waters of the Mediterranean. They were weird surroundings; but my thought naturally turned to the departed heroes who had made the supreme sacrifice and given their lives unflinchingly for a cause; and not in vain, for even though the political horizon may still be clouded and hazy, the future holds in store the reward for the tremendous sacrifices endured and suffered. Those who perish in carrying onward the banner of Christian civilization live forever, and are honored by the succeeding generations. An interesting example exists here in Algiers in the story of San Geronimo.

"During an expedition made by the Spanish garrison of Oran in 1540, a young Arab boy was taken prisoner and baptized under the name of Geronimo. When about 8 years old, he again fell into the hands of his relations, with whom he lived as a Mohammedan till the age of 25 years, when he returned to Oran of his own accord, with the intention of living thenceforth in the religion of Christ.

In May, 156g, he accompanied a party of Spaniards who embarked in a small boat to make a razzia on the Arabs in the vicinity. The expedition was chased by a Moorish corsair, and all the members taken prisoners and carried to Algiers.

Every effort was made to induce Geronimo to renounce Christianity; but as he persisted in remaining steadfast in the faith, he was condemned to death, and sentenced to be thrown alive into 'a mould in which a block of beton was about to be made. His feet and hands were tied with cords, the cruel sentence was carried out, and the block of concrete containing his body was built into an angle of the fort des vingt-quatre heures, then in course of construction."

Haedo carefully recorded the exact spot, and added: "We hope that God's grace may one day extricate Geronimo from this place, and reunite his body with those of many other holy martyrs of Christ whose blood and happy deaths have consecrated this country."

In 1853, the fort was demolished and the above story which had been treated more or less as a legend was singularly enough verified by the finding of San Geronimo's body enclosed in the concrete block in the exact spot recorded by Haedo. A marble tomb in the Cathedral now contains the martyr's bones.

A visit to the Governor General's winter residence, once the Moorish palace of an Algerian dey, was very interesting as it is an excellent example of the type of moorish houses that belonged in earlier days to the rich oriental rulers of this section.

In one of the churches here at Algiers is a commemorative tablet to the memory of Commodore Stephen Decatur which naturally is of interest to all Americans and reminds us of our connection with the history of these Barbary States. It recalls the early activity of our American navy over that period from 1785 to 1815.

Only a little over a century ago, piracy was common in the Mediterranean; in fact it served as the chief means of securing an income by the forcing of tribute money to be paid to the chiefs of these Barbary States. It was a choice between the devil and the deep sea. European nations could either pay the tribute levied and thereby secure immunity for their commerce or be raided, vessels and cargoes captured, and their crews made captive and sold into slavery or their freedom redeemed by paying ransom.

Historians tell us that France effected a fifty year treaty with Algeria by agreeing to pay $200,000 annually. Spain, it is stated, paid these pirates for the peaceful enjoyment of her commerce, from three to five millions of dollars. England, the only power sufficiently strong to put down this piracy, is supposed to have paid about $280,000 annual tribute. The Tripolitan ambassador, when interviewed by Mr. Adams in direct negotiations for the United States, stated that Turkey, Tripoli, Tunisia, Algeria, and Morocco were the sovereigns of the Mediterranean, and that no nation could navigate that sea without a treaty of peace with them. This peace was obtainable by the payment of tribute money. Thirty thousand guineas were demanded for Tripoli with an additional three thousand as an honorarium to the ambassador. It was further suggested that Tunis would probably treat on the same terms; but he could not answer for Algeria and Morocco. This meant that freedom of the Mediterranean Sea for our merchant vessels would cost the United States at least one million dollars. Mr. Adams recommended payment rather than war; Mr. Jefferson as decidedly preferred war. Pacific negotiations prevailed, and a treaty with the Emperor of Morocco was concluded in 1787. Negotiations for a treaty with Algiers failed, and some fourteen American captives remained imprisoned in Algiers for ten years. By 1793 the number had increased to 115 men. Congress then authorized the building of six frigates and the procuring of some smaller vessels to be equipped as galleys. A money settlement, however, was agreed upon and a treaty concluded in 1795 during Washington's administration; and in order to keep our vessels insured against piracy, an annual tribute was provided for, which cost our government approximately one million dollars. Treaties with other Barbary States followed, until nearly two million dollars had been squandered bribing these pirate powers to respect our flag, con-cessions which only encouraged them to further insolence. Later Jefferson became president : he opposed pacifying these pests of commerce by money indemnities or bribes, and sent Commodore Dale with a squadron of three frigates and a sloop of war to make a naval demonstration along the Barbary coast. This expedition was successful in overawing for a time the Barbary powers, and thus the United States was the first Christian nation to set the example of making reprisals, instead of paying ransoms to insure security against these commercial marauders.

In 1803, the squadrons of Commodore Preble and Captain Bainbridge were combined in a naval demonstration that resulted in the Emperor of Morocco being brought to reason, and although the "Philadelphia" in chasing a Tripolitan cruiser into shoal water struck a reef and was captured along with her crew, a short time afterwards there arrived a young lieu-tenant, Stephen Decatur, in command of the "Enterprise," who with seventy men on board the "Intrepid" entered the harbor of Tripoli by night, and when two hundred yards away was hailed and ordered to anchor under threat of being fired upon. Decatur ordered his Maltese pilot to reply that they had lost their anchor in a gale and were unable to comply with the command. When within fifty yards, Decatur sent a small boat with a rope to make fast to the "Philadelphia's" forechain. Not until the Americans actually began to warp the "Intrepid" alongside did the Tripolitans suspect the attack. Decatur and some of his men boarded the "Philadelphia," which was within half gunshot of the castle, drove the Tripolitan crew overboard, set fire to the ship, remained alongside until the flames were beyond control and then withdrew without losing a man.

A few months later (August, 1804), Commodore Preble arrived off Tripoli with a squadron consisting of the frigate Constitution, three brigs, three schooners, six gunboats, and two bomb vessels, and although opposed by a land battery of more than a hundred guns, nineteen gunboats, a brig, two schooners, and twelve galleys, after five attacks the American forces inflicted sufficient damages so that subsequent satisfactory peace negotiations were concluded.

Decatur in this action boarded an enemy's gunboat and in ten minutes cleared the deck, but when withdrawing with his prize he learned that his brother, Lieutenant James Decatur, had also engaged and captured an enemy's ship, but was treacherously shot by its commander after he had surrendered, thereby effecting his escape in another boat which was then making for the harbor. This infuriated Decatur, and with a single boat he sped alongside the offender's ship, bounded over the gunwale, followed by eleven Americans ; and immediately there ensued a most desperate hand to hand fight. Edward S. Ellis repeats the story as it was related by Admiral Stewart who received it from Decatur himself immediately after the fight and briefly it is as follows : Decatur easily recognized the commander by his gorgeous uniform and they instantly came together in a fight to the death. Decatur had a cutlass, the Moor a pike. Decatur in parrying a stroke broke his sword at the hilt. He then sprang like a tiger at his antagonist. The two fell to the deck, Decatur underneath and flat on his back. The Moor attempted to draw a knife from his sash to give the finishing thrust. Decatur flung his legs over his enemy's back and with one arm held him so tight against his own body that he could not force his hand between. In this position Decatur with his free arm drew a pistol from near his hip, reached over the back of the Moor and fired downward, directly towards himself. The chances were ten to one that the bullet would pass through both their bodies, but luckily it met a bone and the huge barbarian rolled off dead. The dauntless American freed himself and rose to his feet; but another Moor aimed a fearful blow at Decatur, who was unaware of his danger. An American sailor, Reuben Jones, who was already desperately wounded, flung himself between them and received the blow on his skull, which was fractured. (This brave fellow, however, recovered and was later pensioned by the Government.) Decatur again won the fight and withdrew with two prizes.

In 1815, the final deathblow was dealt to Algerine piracy. Decatur, with the frigates, "Guerrière," "Macedonian," and "Constellation," along with a sloop of war, four brigs, and two schooners, sailed through the Straits of Gibraltar into the Mediterranean and captured the largest of the Algerian navy, a frigate with forty-four guns, after a running fight with the "Guerrière" lasting twenty-five minutes. Decatur then appeared with his fleet off Algiers and the terrified dey promptly consented to a treaty which was signed on Decatur's quarterdeck, surrendering all prisoners, providing indemnity, renouncing all future claims to any American tribute and the practice of reducing prisoners of war to slavery. Decatur then proceeded to Tunis and Tripoli and completed the prestige of the American arms.

These intrepid accomplishments by the American navy awakened other nations, and the legalizing of tribute money to the Barbary States soon ceased. I don't know of any stories from the Arabian Nights that can excel these sea tales and the daring exploits of the brave fighting men who were so largely responsible for the success of our first navy.

An enjoyable excursion may be made by automobile from Algiers to Boufarik and Blida, the latter place being the center of the orange industry of Algeria. You pass through a beautiful rolling country, fertile fields with clustering trees, a mountainous background, and return by a drive along the sea, passing through a landscape with a charm peculiarly its own.

We motored over splendid roads and were constantly passing Arabs afoot or seated on the pack of an over-laden mule. Each was wrapped in his burnouse, a grey colored robe with hood attached that was drawn over the head. The country-side is almost a continuous vine-yard. Thousands of acres are devoted to growing grapes for wine. It is the principal industry of this district, and the average yearly production is more than three million barrels. The vines are here free from injurious insects common to France. The grapes grow in great bunches, both a purple and a white variety with a pink tinge, and are as delicious as the wonder grapes of Eshcol.

Boufarik, a small town, is situated in what it is stated was once a great unhealthy marshy district, now a level fertile plain. The streets are broad and overshadowed by the two rows of great sycamore trees on each side. In the center of the town is a monument to Sergeant Blandan. In 1842, he commanded twenty-two French soldiers who were attacked by three hundred Arabs. The gallant little squadron, reduced to only five men, held out for more than three hours, when finally help arrived. Blandan was killed, but his last words to his men were "Courage enfants; defendez-vous jusju'à la mort." His dying words are in-scribed upon the monument.

We are in the land of three Sundays : Friday, the Mohammedan Sunday; Saturday, observed by the Jews ; and the Christian Sabbath. It is interesting to note that all three of these religions grew out of the Old Testament of the Bible.

I was amused when told of a young Arab gardener sixteen years old, who is employed at one of Algier's leading hotels. He was mourning woefully to Allah because of the illness of his wife—"I will lose my three hundred francs—I will lose my three hundred francs" he wailed as if his soul visioned the depths of hell. Apparently the death of his wife was of little or no concern other than the monetary loss that it entailed, for he had but recently purchased her of her father, which is the custom in this land of Islam faith, where women are merely chattels, and in some parts, the fatter the woman, the higher the price. As a French lady said to me, "A dog is under any circumstances at least a dog; but here women are nothing but men's slaves."

I attended the christening of an Arab boy, the guest of another European who had been invited. The ceremonies took place in a public house engaged for the purpose. Approximately one hundred people were in attendance, Arabs, Kabyles, a few Moors, and four or five Europeans. While it is against the laws of the Mohammedan religion to drink intoxicating liquors, I saw them imbibing beer and, strange to say, crême-de-menthe, even mixing the two. Could a worse concoction be conceived? There was weird music, on pipes and bamboo drums, accompanied by a muscle dancer. The guests present gave money gifts, the amounts thus realized being set aside for the boy until his marriage or his sixteenth birthday. It was estimated that the gifts amounted to more than three thousand francs. The child was by one of the four wives of the Arab father, for while the Koran is, generally speaking, severe, it decrees marriage a duty and permits four wives to him who can support them. The law also permits slavery and concubinage.

These incidents will serve to illustrate the unfairness that exists towards women in the Mohammedan religion and in Mohemmedan lands. In fact there is no religion that accords to woman her entitled place as does the Christian religion. Let me add it is much more important in my opinion for women to protest against the dangerous influence of indifference towards the Sacred Word which is the Magna Charta to woman, the standard of their freedom, and the controlling factor of man's morality, than to hector politicians for more political privileges. The basic foundation of our present order of civilization is the Bible, and just so far as we depart from its teachings and precepts we rob our children and their children of its rich heritage awarded the faithful.