The Art Of Make-Up:
The Eyes, Eyelashes, Eyebrows
The Arms, Hands, Fingers And Nails
The Feet And Legs
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( Originally Published Early 1900's )
The mouth is considered one of the chief indicators of character and expression; consequently it is very important in the make-up.
According to Lavater, the mouth with the upper lip unproportionately advanced is an indication of good spirit, happy disposition, but when the lower lip is strongly advanced, it indicates an impulsive, irritable character. When both lips are strongly advanced, it is an indication of honesty. Thin, compressed lips indicate sinister feeling. Small, normal lips are a sign of intellectual aspirations. Thick lips indicate vice and sexual desires. A lipless mouth, showing very little of the lips, indicates coldness.
To obtain the necessary shapes and effects, one must learn how to change the form and size of the mouth. In changing the form, the corners of the lips are raised to impersonate a good, noble, happy character, and lowered to indicate low characters. The raising of the corners of the lips is done by drawing a line upward from the mouth, and the lowering, by drawing a line downward from the mouth. The lines are drawn with a pointed brush and should be of the same color as the wrinkles.
To enlarge the mouth, a short straight line between the lips will often be sufficient; enlarging the lips makes the mouth appear larger. Diminishing the size of the lips with the ground grease color will make the mouth appear smaller. Sick, dry lips, as in tuberculosis, are obtained by applying few little white spots on each lip. Drooping lips can be obtained by draw ng a line under the lower lip, made up with feeble red (this line should be similar to a shado v) . The upper lip should be made up with strong red.
In juvenile make-up, a healthy mouth is obtained by the application of special red paint to the lips.
When a smile is desired, the corners of the mouth are raised. When lowered, the effect is that of melancholy and dissatisfaction. Lowering one lip and raising the other causes the mouth to become irregular and to appear ironical.
An application of vaseline to the corners of the lips on a finished make-up is a very good imitation of saliva, as in epileptics and drunkards.