Our Day On The Rhine

( Originally Published 1911 )

August 20.—I have been unable since our arrival here to write an account of our trip on the Rhine. That day (Aug. 13) on the delightful river will always be looked back upon with keen delight. Our bright anticipations were more than realized—the scenery being finer, to us, than that of our own Hudson river, with which it has sometimes been compared, chiefly, we thought, because there was more of it. The castles greatly added to the effect. One beautiful picture followed another in quick succession. L. remarked that we needed "eyes on four sides of our heads!" It was all indescribably grand and impressive. At times we seemed to be walled in by the lofty banks. Some of the castles were in ruins. Others had been restored and were occupied. L. took a snap-shpt at Drachenfels with its ruined castle. This was near the beginning of the finest scenery. The terraced vineyards, reaching up to the tops of some of the highest hills, were a wonder to us. We saw clearly through our field glass the National Monument opposite Bingen commemorating the restoration of the German Empire, and an unfinished statue of Emperor William I, surrounded by a frame for construction. The next day (August 14) there was much that was interesting all the way from Mayence to Kissingen. We enjoyed all that we saw, although we were tired and anxious on account of the mistake which made our journey three hours longer. We could hardly believe our ears when the conductor called out Bad Kissingen. We had had that day so much trouble ! Oh, how glad, glad we were to reach here ! We passed through Hesse-Darmstadt where the good Princess Alice lived and died. A little German boy who was in the car with us pointed in the direction of the town, which was hidden by trees. This bright, intelligent school boy had with him his bag of school books. Although he understood no English, we were sorry to see him leaving the car. There were some kind German people on the car with us. Others were disagreeable and gave me a feeling of homesickness. I did not like the cars. A few of us were shut in together on two long seats facing each other. L. said they "very much resembled the cars he remembers in America when he was a boy."

August 22.—L. has been to a little English church today. The policemen here carry swords instead of clubs as in Antwerp, Cologne and Mayence, the scabbard sometimes dragging on the ground as they walk. Two walks have followed a good dinner in our room, one to the Springs, where we saw on the colonnade men playing cards and chess and three women sewing—on the Sabbath. In a walk up the hill we saw apple trees trained to wires and stakes. Good sized apples were on an apple shrub not more than a foot high. Beautiful hollyhocks and roses were growing together. Three of our finest roses grow very tall and luxuriantly here, La France, Marechal Neil and Gloire de Dijon. We have noticed also some very dark red and pink roses that thrive wonderfully. There are quantities of them for sale in the gardens with. other beautiful flowers. The ladies who are stopping here place them in the hall for the night and the room is filled with fragrance. They are purchased from the flower stands which are in front of the flower beds near the colonnade. Close by this Villa a brass band has played this afternoon and evening. Tables are there and the men eat and drink and sing.

August 23.—L. and I walked this morning in a garden where there are very beautiful flowers—our own flowers, but growing more luxuriantly than at home—snap dragons and mourning brides, with large blossoms and beautiful colors; also asters, zinnias, pinks and lobelias; beautiful pomegranate trees with many scarlet blossoms, growing in large tubs, and the finest and most gorgeous coleus plants we ever saw. This afternoon when walking to the post office we met the Fifth Bavarian regiment. At the Springs this afternoon we heard their band play. Their officers' very polite bows to each other and to ladies and gentlemen interested me. A large number of officers were there and were made much of. They were fine looking men with broad, square shoulders. Dr. Diruf came into our room unexpectedly on the morning of the 21st and found me in bed. He pre-scribed, thinking the case needed attention. L.'s health is improving, notwithstanding a cold.

August 24.—L. found some graham bread for me in the Kurgarten. Although we do not drink from the Springs in the afternoon, we go to see the crowd and listen to the music. A lovely walk in the country the early part of the day brought us disappointment, as we were hoping to reach the soldiers' encampment. Alas ! it was too far for us. L. consoled himself by taking a picture of a Bavarian plough and I gathered wild flowers, very sweet and quite different from our own at home. They have graced our dinner table since our return. Yesterday L. was asking about the old watch tower here; a man told him it was built seven hundred years after Jesus Christ. We stopped and talked to a cow on our way to the Springs this afternoon. She was drawing a hay rigging. We put our hands on her, but were a little afraid she was not gentle.

August 25.—We have enjoyed pleasant walks together today. To the station first to see if L.'s much lamented diary had been sent there, next to the old watch tower where L. took a picture, and this afternoon to a garden of flowers near the Springs. A bed of beautiful tall fuchsias and two beds of tuberous begonias awakened our admiration, some of the single blossoms being enormous. The double blossoms were large and fine and their yellow, pink, red and other colors quite wonderful. Afterwards we went into a bakery to buy our rolls and were caught there by the rain.

August 26.—This afternoon we have been to see the old Catholic Church which L. considers very curious —"more curious than St. Paul's." As he says, "going in from such a desolate and ruinous outside we were surprised to find so many images and pictures, and especially the great painting behind the altar, the Assumption of the Virgin." Large marble pillars and tall candles adorned each side of the altar and in front a light was burning. A very small organ in a very high gallery, two large crucifixes and an ornamental pulpit gave additional interest to the interior. This old church was built three hundred years ago during the Re-formation. After visiting the church we went to examine some old buildings and parts of the old city wall which re-main. Fortunately we found an intelligent miller who kindly took us into his mill and showed us the city wall as a part of the rear wall of the mill, three feet thick, and outside of the mill fragments of the wall, and said they were all on a line leading to the old watch tower which stood in ancient times at one corner of the city wall. This kind man took us into his house and introduced us to his wife and sister and with a brush removed the mill-dust from our garments. The house-keeping rooms and mill being in the same building, I was much surprised by the beauty and neatness of the rooms and felt much interested in the family.

Bad Kissingen is a delightful place. We enjoy its quaintness. The air is fine, "like White Mountain air, L. thinks. He said just now while standing at one of the windows : "There is certainly a beautiful view of the hills from here." Our room is large and delightful, giving us not only fine views of the hills but much in the street which interests us. Our goldenrod is cultivated here in gardens, but we see none growing wild. After dinner the Fraulein brought up to us a bouquet of beautiful roses from Mrs. Liebeskind. Here goes a woman driving two cows which are hitched together. They are drawing a wagon with deep sloping sides in which are three tubs and a boy. The woman walks along holding the whip and sometimes takes hold of the pole of the wagon to keep the cows straight in the road.

August 27.-Early this morning, before it was time to rise, a portion of the Fifth Bavarian regiment halted here, went through some of their military tactics and then tramped, tramped away. The cardinal flower is cultivated in the Kurgarten and near there. At the Maxbrunnen Spring nicotianas are blooming. How fragrant they are at evening and how they remind me of my own dear home at Cleveland. While at the Springs this afternoon a lady spoke to us, seeming very glad to see us, whom I recognized as Miss W , a German lady we became acquainted with on our steamer. She became sick from overeating on the Mohawk and from overdoing in London (sight seeing) and now has been sent here by her physician to recuperate !

August 28.-We were interested in the tombs and monuments in the Catholic cemetery this morning and in the flowers. On many of the monuments are the words, "Here rests in God." Built on the high fence is a very old piece of stone work (really an old monument), with a kneeling figure in armor cut in stone. L. thought "an antiquary would try to decipher the inscription." After our return home a procession led by a man with a banner passed the house, with thirty or forty men and women dressed in peasant garb, the women with handkerchiefs on their heads. They were singing and a man in the center of the procession was "lining off" what was sung. There seems to be no Protestant cemetery here. We went one day into the Lutheran church, where the Fraulein and Mrs. L. worship. The Fraulein says "we are a little people." When we were walking to the Springs this afternoon on one of the principal streets (Ludwig) we met a horse and cow drawing a load together, the cow drawing by her head and the horse by his collar. A strange sight, we thought ; L. hoped that "the cow wouldn't have to trot."

August 29.-A Catholic church is close by us. Its bells strike the hour and the quarter hour throughout the day. L. just now said, "What a pity it would have been if we hadn't gone 'to Canterbury. One is over head and ears in antiquity there." But there is considerable here, too. I wish we could go to Nuremburg where there is so much that is ancient. I met Lady Claude Hamilton and the Prince of Schleswig-Holstein face to face in the hall of this villa, today, while I was standing talking with the Fraulein. This afternoon we met a group of peasant women with bare heads, wearing short dresses and bright aprons with gay handkerchiefs pinned around their shoulders. The names of some of the mountains or hills (we hardly know which to call them) that we saw this afternoon from Altenberg are Staffelberg, which is the one we see from our window on the left and has the tower with the flag; Limberg, which we see from our windows on the right, and has a coffee house on it and two flags, and Stationsberg, which is above the railroad station.

August 30.—L. and I sat in a sunny place in the Kurgarten this afternoon. Afterwards we went to look at some oil paintings and bought views of Kissingen. After dinner Miss Weil called and we went together to look at spirit lamps and cooking utensils.

August 31.--Twice escaped this forenoon from being caught in the rain, walking between the showers. This afternoon went out again to look at pictures. L. joined me at the springs, where we listened to the music. He has bought a small book which will for the present take the place of the lost diary. I have bought a little frying pan which is very cunning—the smallest one I ever saw.

September 1.—It is two months since we left our dear home! We have walked this morning to a little wharf on the Saale River, and have visited a photographer who could speak English and said he had lived in Chicago ; he directed us to a store where we bought some unmounted photographs. L. has taken two pictures this afternoon—one of Bodenlaube, the other of the Rathaus, the old town hall, with a part of the market. Afterwards we listened to fine music at the Springs. This forenoon a call from Miss Weil and after-wards from Dr. Diruf. I walked with Miss W. to her lodging place and saw her arrangements for making tea, cooking eggs and other food. This afternoon a lovely walk to Rosehill Villa on Altenberg gave us a fine view of the opposite hills and of Bad-Kissingen lying between. We crossed the River Saale, going and returning on different bridges, and passed Park Villa, where the kind strangers are who helped us carry our hand baggage on the evening of our arrival here and came with us to this Villa to show us the way. They are remembered with gratitude.

September 2.—L. took a view of the crowd near and about the music stand at the springs this morning before break-fast. After breakfast and after resting we walked to the little steamboat landing where the tiny steamer was waiting for passengers. L. calls it "a comical boat." We took seats in the bow of the boat and started for Salinen where the salt works, Bismarck's monument, the bath house and restaurant are. We enjoyed our ride in a very small steamer on a very small river. After walking about considerably we returned by boat to Kissingen. So many clothes were drying in the Saale meadows by the banks of the river that one might think all Kissingen was having its clothes dried there.

September 3.-Our first baths were taken in the Royal Bath House this morning; they seemed too strong for L. A great deal of rainy weather is disgusting many of the guests. Two ladies from Roumania, the younger one with a beautiful dog from England, drew my attention yesterday after-noon. The dog led to our acquaintance and we conversed as well as we could by signs and a few words. L. bought for me today an agate pen holder at the Bazaar where we see so many pretty things.

September 4.—We have been to call on Mr. Leuchs again, our miller whose home is in a retired hidden spot. We could not find it. By signs and a few German words I at last succeeded in making a man understand what I wanted. He seemed delighted that he understood me. L. joined us and the man went with us to show the way. I was as pleased as a child that I made him understand. We had been wandering about so long and I was very tired. Opposite the miller's house there were men threshing grain with flails in the old-fashioned way. L. has received proofs of his book today. Mrs. Fox called this afternoon.

September 5.—It is very cool this morning. We have been into the Catholic church which is close by, after trying in vain to get warm in the sun. We came home and were pleased to find a fire in the dining saloon. This is in a separate building on the other side of the yard. L. is still there. I came in to write a little and put our room in order. Later.—L. and I sat together in the dining saloon this evening.

September 6.—We have returned home in a rain from the baths. Everybody is complaining of the weather. Mrs. Fox called yesterday afternoon while L. was resting. I took her to the saloon and we walked about the park and garden together. Afterwards L. and I walked with her to the mill to see our miller. We saw only his brother, who was to leave for New York this morning. His trunk was on the scales. He took us into the pretty rooms and explained to us that the miller and his wife were only recently married and the drawing room had been newly furnished for the bride. This brother had spent six months in Lon-don and could speak much better English than the miller. I carried letters to the postoffice, purchasing the stamps of a Bavarian who could speak no English and looked cross.

September 8.—We have been to the station this morning, L. wishing to make inquiries of an official there who speaks English. Yesterday afternoon we walked to the old ruined castle of Bodenlaube, a long, up-hill walk. I enjoyed every step of the way there and back, except that I feared the walk and steep ascent were too much for L. Two towers and some of the old walls are all that remain of the castle. Two locust trees of good size grow in one of the towers, as they grow in America. Here in Kissingen they trim them and train them into round trees with a long, straight stalk. From the top of each tower there is a fine view of the whole valley. On our way to the castle we passed an image of Mary and a large statue of Christ sinking under His cross and a very large well with a thick stone curb. Both of us looked down into it. Then we passed a large linden tree with an immense hollow trunk. Under it stood an old stone crucifix, erected in 1619, with the figure of a woman in stone on each side. We passed farm houses—barns and houses under the same roof. I gathered wild flowers on the way to the summit and, after reaching it, about the old ruin. From the towers we saw the ruins of Trimburg. Heavy clouds lent beauty and grandeur to the view. The air was clear and we were delighted that we were enabled to snatch such a fine afternoon for this view in the midst of so much rainy weather. It rains today again and we are cold in our room.

This castle of Bodenlaube dates from the year 1100. I gathered and brought home ferns from the ruins and also pretty wild pinks and other flowers which I am trying to press. The wild flowers here are a surprise and delight to me.

After dinner.—L. has gone to the dining saloon to get warm. Before going he remarked, "this weather is quite a tug," and so it is. I walked this morning and L. stayed in the saloon preparing the index for his book, but afterwards walked a little. I regret that he has this work to do. He prepared his book last year while doing his college work. Mrs. Fox has left on account of the weather. We took the Actien baths this afternoon.

September 9.—Another rainy, disagreeable day. The bad weather began two weeks ago. We are staying much of our time in the saloon today. L. has been working on his indexes. A short walk to the postoffice, bakery and the Springs this afternoon.

September 10.—Last night L. and I attended a Symphony Concert in Conversationssaal given by our band at the Springs. L. said when it was over: "You cannot say now that you never attended a first class concert." He finished today a first sketch of the three indexes to his book. On our way to the ruins of Bodenlaube (September 7) we met a large fat woman in a bath chair. She completely filled the chair. A child was sitting in her lap, and a cow drawing the chair ! When we were returning from Baudenlaube we met the same woman in the same chair coming up the hill as we were going down. A young woman was drawing the wagon in place of the cow.

September 11.—We walked a part of the way up the hill to Stationsberg, seeing some of the stations of the Cross on our way up. Brought home with me a bouquet of golden rod—so large and fine that we could hardly believe it to be that flower. I carried some to Dr. Diruf. The sun came out while we were gone and this morning it was clear when we went to the Springs, but now it is cloudy and the air is very chilly.

I took whey with the water at the Springs this morning, as the doctor directed, but did not like it. L. began copying the general index of his book. He carried our washing to Frau Roder.

September 12.-Our wedding anniversary today! Thirty-seven years ! September 12, 1860. How long ago it seems and yet how short ! Yesterday we took our baths as usual and I drank the Maxbrunnen water without the whey. This afternoon we visited the beautiful interior of the Conversationssaal. The building was erected by King Ludwig I, of Bavaria. L. carried with him, unknown to me, my Gospel Hymns, and we celebrated our wedding by playing on the piano and singing. Afterwards we found the Jewish Synagogue which was unlocked for us by a woman, who allowed us to enter. A man came soon, appearing quite disturbed. I found it was because I was down stairs in the Synagogue. Women must go up stairs always, it seems. Back of the pulpit is the Bavarian Coat of Arms. There are three hundred and forty-one Jews in Kissingen.

September 13.-I have been having a pleasant talk with the Fraulein and through her with Mrs. Liebeskind. Miss Weil left yesterday afternoon. Mrs. Ficken and her daughter leave today for Leipzig. It is two years since they left their home in Brooklyn, N. Y.

September 14.-Yesterday afternoon, figuratively speaking, we visited Calvary and witnessed the suffering of our blessed Lord. L. called it "the strangest walk he ever took." To me it seemed not only strange but solemn. We climbed Stationsberg, sometimes called Calvarienberg, which is steep and without shade, to see the Stations of the Cross. These are covered enclosures placed at intervals at the side of the way, having iron gratings through which can be seen the bas-relief figures carved in the stone which forms the back of each enclosure. The first station represents the trial of Jesus, with Pilate washing his hands; the others different scenes on the way to Calvary. Passing the thirteen stations of the Cross, including the crucifixion group, we went down a few stone steps to the tomb symbolizing the one in which our Savior lay, which is large enough for use. On the highest point of the hill on a raised platform with the blue sky for a back-ground stand the three crosses from which hang the almost life-size representations of Christ and the two thieves—the two lonely, heart-broken women standing below looking up at Jesus. Christ and the thief on His right hand face each other. These five figures have the appearance of white stone or marble. Two skulls are carved in stone just back of the crosses. Frequently flowers are left at the different stations as tributes of love. The hill being steep, the descent was almost painful. A stone step at each station could be used as a resting place. Other seats were on the way up. L. said: "What would we think if we saw such things in America!" As we approached the summit we passed through pine trees. There is a statue here called "Mourning Germania" erected in honor of sixty-two Bavarians and Prussians who fell in the war of 1866, five years before the union of the two, when Bavaria became a part of the German Empire.

We have been to the Kurgarten to hear the band play "William Tell." L. was anxious to have me hear it, as it is a favorite of his and one of the pieces he remembers hearing played during his college days. We have enjoyed the music and the different instruments here, even the bass drum, the kettle drums, the snare drum and cymbals. The post horn, which goes by here, I have enjoyed also. It re-minds me of the post horn I have seen on postage stamps. We received a beautiful dish which has on it a view of Villa Liebeskind, brought by the Fraulein from Mrs. Liebeskind. In the Kurgarten is a statue of King Ludwig I, of Bavaria. There is also one of King Max, as he is called. Both these kings did much for Kissingen. L. has finished the general index of his book.

September 16.—A postal from Miss von Staff this morning. I called on Mrs. Dalchow in room No. 9. These are two of my German friends (both speak English) with whom I have become acquainted in this Villa. The weather is worse than ever, but we are going out to Hotel Wittlebach to dinner. L. copied the whole of the Greek index yesterday and today finished the index of texts.

September 17.—The rainy weather continues. We have moved from room 26 down to No. 19 where we have a fire. Now it will not be necessary to go to the dining saloon to get warm.

September 19.—A grand illuminated Catholic procession drew a great crowd last evening. It seemed as though the whole Catholic population had turned out. The Fraulein came up to our room prepared to go with us to see the sight. The illuminations were really beautiful. Men and women both old and young, the women mostly with bare heads, some-times carrying babies, were in the procession. A brass band played and when that was quiet the women sang. In the midst of the procession a group of boys and girls, mostly girls dressed in white, came, carrying an image holding a cross and candles perhaps a yard long. Then another group came with an image of Mary. Then a number of men covered by a large canopy; under the centre a priest or bishop richly dressed was being conducted by other men and other priests under the canopy, all arrayed in gorgeous robes of richly embroidered silk. Yesterday was a special day of prayer among the Catholics. "Eternal Adoration of God" we were told. The bells in the Catholic church began ringing between four and five in the morning, ending last night when the procession passed into the church.

They tell me here that they can understand me better than Lemuel, although he has considerable German—one lady kindly saying that "it was very agreeable to hear me speak." The casement windows here are in three or four parts so that the whole window can be thrown open.

September 20.—L. says it is the worst day we have had—so much rain. There is a tall, gaunt-looking man here at the springs who wears such a long, loose outside garment that people say he has come here in his nightgown. He also wears a very broad-brimmed, soft, felt hat which gives him a peculiar appearance. We wondered to what nation he belonged. I asked L. to speak to him and he proved to be an intelligent Frenchman who could speak good English. Another man has attracted our attention. He rode by here in an open carriage yesterday after-noon. A gentleman sat beside him and back of them rode a postilion dressed in white. This morning L. talked with him at the springs and found that he was from India and was now on his way home from London where he had at-tended the Queen's Jubilee. L. thought "he rather looked down upon him when told that we were at a Villa ! " L. has just been reading to me the weather prediction for tomorrow. They have here at the springs a most elaborate arrangement for the weather—a barometer, different thermometers ,and a daily prediction from Munich. "Johnny Bull" (Mr. McClintock) as L. calls him, predicted it would clear off last night. He and his wife are from Hampshire, England. They are both very friendly and solicitous about my cold. Here comes Kathrina with our supper. Usually Frieda comes but now that so few are here Frieda washes and Kathrina brings our food.

September 21.—The same kind of weather and I find it difficult to throw off my cold. Dr. Diruf came to see me on Friday before breakfast. The close of the season is near. L. said there seemed to be very few at the springs this morning. When he came home this afternoon he said he "guessed I must bundle up a few minutes and go with him to see the street market." We have just returned. It is held here six or eight times a year. Booths made roughly of boards and canvas covering lined each side of the street and people who wished to see or buy walked between. There was a great variety of things for sale. I priced shawls and stockings and thought they were cheap. There was a great deal of yarn there, also shoe strings, jewelry, combs, candy, and piles of shoes.

L. says the weather "beats all creation." He has gone to walk (in the rain) to get an appetite for supper. We have been again to the Catholic cemetery which we consider the most curious church-yard we were ever in. A great many beautiful flowers are there, among them the darkest rose we ever saw. In one place our "Bouncing Betts" is cultivated. Some of the monuments are elaborate and showy, among them one of Joseph Leuchs, father of our miller. On one monument there is a likeness of the person which L. thought appeared like a photograph on porcelain. Lamps are on many of the monuments.

L. made, yesterday, an absolute end to indexes and proofs and sent the copy and a letter to Chicago.

September 23.—Four weeks of bad weather ! I am sure it is different from anything we have ever experienced. It has rained more or less every day, not excepting the day we went to Bodenlaube. Of late it has been growing worse and worse. L. has a cold now. He says that so far this season there have been 16,737 visitors in Kissingen. I have been with L. to the Kurgarten this afternoon. It seemed good to hear the band again after ten days' absence from the music on account of my cold, contracted the afternoon we climbed Calvarienberg when the air was cold and cutting. The music sounded well. It is still a ,complete orchestra. L. introduced me to the Frenchman and we talked pleasantly. L. thinks it "funny that a man from Paris, the centre of fashion, should be laughed at for his coat." I have an English walnut to take home, given to me by a man who was gathering them from a tree near by. L. asked if I might have one from a basket on the sidewalk.

September 24.—L. says "there is some sky again." This is true. We look forward with hope to better weather. Monsieur Henri Gaidoz (the Frenchman) sent to me by L. from the springs this morning five different post cards. He inquired if I would be at home this afternoon. Mr. and Mrs. McClintock called yesterday afternoon while we were out. We called upon them this morning. They were both lying down after their baths.

September 25.—Wonder of wonders! This has been a warm, sunny day. I talked with two ladies from Hesse-Darmstadt about Princess Alice and Prince Christian in the Kurgarten this afternoon. While we were out walking yesterday afternoon a crowd of children poured out of a school house with their knapsacks containing their books, slates and other school articles on their backs. It was a novel and interesting sight to me in this foreign land. I stopped to look at the children and they crowded about me. I apparently was as much of a curiosity to them as they were to me. Most of these knapsacks, as I call them, were made of leather, some of them handsomely embroidered. One I noticed was partly covered with hair like my dear mother's hair trunk. L. did not enjoy the crowd and was in a hurry to get away, so I said adieu to them and they said it to me smiling—one little boy politely taking off his hat. This Buchertasch or book pouch is in the form of a soldier's knapsack. A wagon containing a few slabs of stone passed our Villa. Two men were drawing the wagon and six women and two men were pushing it. Very few oxen are seen here.

September 26.—At the springs this morning Mr. McClintock introduced me to the Prince from India, a Rajah and governor of a large province near Bombay. He is accompanied by his secretary, to whom the Rajah introduced me. These are the gentlemen I spoke of in my journal September 20th. L. and I talked with a cultured Irishman from Dublin and Bray. We went into an Evangelical church (Protestant Lutheran) this noon and were surprised to see a crucifix with tall candlesticks and tall candles on each side of the altar. The fog hung over the hills prettily this morning.

September 27.-Today I am to pack our trunks. L. paid Dr. Diruf forty marks. I met him at the springs this morning. I also met Mr. and Mrs. McClintock, the Rajah and his secretary, with whom I had a pleasant conversation. The latter asked for my address and expressed himself as much pleased to meet a lady from America.

Later.—The Rajah's secretary called upon me this after-noon while I was packing our trunks. I was tired and flushed, but went down to receive him. Was glad when L. came to help entertain. He gave me a silver coin from India —one rupee—India, 1887, Victoria Empress with her crown, which I value highly. Some weeks ago among the flowers in the Kurgarten there was a bouquet in the form of a bicycle —the wire frame being covered with different kinds of flowers, the wheels with delicate pink balsams, the saddle with mourning brides, and for a lantern a sun-flower. I wished B. could see it.