My Debut At Court

( Originally Published 1921 )

AFTER Hollenegg our Vienna apartment seemed frightfully new for a time, till we became accustomed again to things made within our century which were meant to fit themselves into our quite modern lives. Naturally we soon settled back into our own ways, and finally we thought of the days at the castle as of a tale of old chivalry; now, alas, completely swept away by war and revolution.

There was much simplicity among the Austrians as well as grandeur, and many of the aristocrats went for some part of the year to tiny shooting-lodges or cottages, where they would live in rough clothes, looked after by a maid, a cook, and a huntsman or two. They seemed al-ways to look and feel at home, and in this to me was the height of their civilization and distinction. Even the Emperor took himself off from his finery at Schônbrunn to a small villa he owned at Ischl. There he spent his time dressed in homespun, walking in mountain paths with his daughters and their children, who came to visit him, or talking with the peasant, the woodsman, or the traveller whom he chanced to pass seated by the road-side. The Emperor was on excellent terms with all these his people, and many were the stories of what he had said or done at Ischl among these humble subjects. One could not hear so much of the sovereign without affectionate interest springing up in one's heart, and I looked forward to being presented to the fine old man. Whenever I could I went where he was to be seen.

So it chanced that I caught a first and only glimpse of the German Emperor, too, when the latter came to visit his ally, Francis Joseph, and was received with the honors due his rank. From the train to the Hofburg the court carriages drove with impressive array of archdukes, ministers, courtiers, and aides-de-camp. Francis Joseph sat with the visiting Emperor in a large victoria, in which he did not look so much at home as in his own usual small carriage. He was dressed in a German uniform and he seemed unnatural to me; but William II was thoroughly enjoying his position, and I think he liked the gay Austrian uniform he wore.

The people on the street applauded and cheered—not so much as they usually did their own Emperor, but enough to show good breeding and hospitality toward their sovereign's guest—and William, sitting very straight, saluted to left and right, while his old host sat back and watched the people with his tolerant smile. Now and then, when he picked out a familiar face in the crowd, he directed toward it a friendly glance, accompanied as always by a quick smile. William II looked pretentious, still, and unhealthy. His drawn white face seemed most unattractive, and I understood fully the Austrians' feelings when they thought him an unsympathetic ally. Never at any point did his affected pose relax or did he have a smile to accompany his salutes. The rumors from court said he had not made a favorable impression there either; in fact, casual remarks led one to feel that he had played his rôle wrongly and had not acted in a sincere manner, so that his departure was hailed with satisfaction by both the city and the palace.

I was only a little over sixteen when Mr. Cleveland was elected President, in November, 1892. Soon after this he honored my father with a charming personal let-ter telling the young American Minister of the pleasure he had in learning of his fine work during the past four years to cément good relations between Austria and our country, and saying he would be glad if my father would remain on at his post under his own Democratic ad-ministration. My father was greatly flattered by Mr. Cleveland's offer, and wrote at once to express his appreciation of the praise of the future President, but he declined the honor of continuing as Minister at Vienna, since he felt the position should go to a representative of the President's party. He told Mr. Cleveland, how-ever, he would be only too glad to remain on until such time as the latter selected his successor, so that the new man would have no difficulties at the début.

It meant that we should be in Vienna until the late spring, and my parents decided (as possibly this would be my one and only opportunity to see a court), in spite of my extreme youth I should go into society, or at least to the great court ball, where a "circle" reception of the diplomats was held, and where I would consequently have an occasion to be presented to the sovereign.

Since Rudolf's death there had been no dancing at court, but this year the Emperor's two granddaughters, aged about sixteen, were to come to Vienna for part of the season. The old sovereign was anxious to give them a good time, delighting in the pleasure he could furnish, and to have their sunny presence and that of his daughter, Princess Gisela, of Bavaria, near him. He had borne the loss of his son so bravely that he had won every sympathy. He was alone for the empress was still buried in her melancholy, and either travelled or stayed hidden in one of her distant châteaux in Hungary. She loved these better than any in Austria. The Austrians spoke of their empress in a different tone from the one they used for Francis Joseph, and it was whispered about by the people that she was mad. If you asked how they knew, they would suggest she was a Wittelsbach, and these were all mad—and "See how she travels" was added by way of proof positive. She, on the other hand, it seems, said the Hungarians understood her, and that she must keep away yet for a time from the gay functions which were considered part of her duties as empress of the dual monarchy.

Late one winter while we were in Vienna, the empress had once returned to the capital, and a state dinner or two had been given for the heads of foreign missions where ladies were "commanded " to attend with their husbands, since Her Majesty would preside with the Emperor. My parents were at one of these feasts, which, by the way, occurred at five in the afternoon. The meal itself was as short in service as possible. This was usual, and many of the guests at court dinners complained, that as a lackey stood behind each place and removed the plates as quickly as the sovereign finished with each course, and as Francis Joseph was the most abstemious of men and was served first, they had the feeling their food was merely passed before them on a plate, which the arbitrary footman put in from the left and withdrew at once from the right side.

This evening, with the empress present and the ladies of her court, it was a longer party. She ate more slowly, and talked more to her neighbors, and then after dinner she went down the line of foreign ambassadors and ministers, always making a few amiable remarks and entering with some into lengthy conversation.

Reaching my father, she said to him in admirable English as he bent to kiss her hand : "The Emperor has told me a great deal about you and about your wonderful shooting, Colonel Grant, and I have spent much time of late years reading of your country with its marvellous scenery and people. I have long wanted to go there, and I have a trip all planned. You must help me persuade the Emperor to allow me to take the journey and see all I have read about."

At my father's question as to what she had read she plunged into a discussion of the books, naming nearly all the good authors of typical American tales—Cooper, Irving, and so on. Then she went on to tell that she had read also my grandfather's Memoirs, which she praised, repeating how much interest and pleasure she took in America, its ideal development and great men. Finally she mentioned some of her past travels and spoke of her love for the change these gave her, especially of the charming palace of Achilleion, on the island of Corfu, which she owned and wanted to sell now, because she was too old to go and live there. And would my father, if he had occasion among his compatriots, speak of this fact ? She would like to sell the place to an American, and would send an album of photos of it to my father. She seemed much younger than her age in her enthusiasm, and the dialogue was of unusual duration.

All the guests were greatly delighted with the variety and animation of her conversation, and quite completely under the spell of her beauty, though she was approaching sixty at that time. Not a gray hair was visible in the piles of braids and curls famous in all Europe, and the luminous dark eyes had kept their fire in spite of many tears. Her features were admittedly perfect, and her figure, tall, still slim and willowy, was handled with perfect ease and unconscious pride. Her robes were of long, sweeping, unrelieved black, made not in the momentary fashion but on lines of special grace, and her gentle way of talking and apparent pleasure in it won every one completely. She had lingered over the long row of gentlemen, while the Emperor had finished the whole number of their guests, and then she smilingly said she had forgotten time and must hurry. Down the line of ladies she passed, with but a pleasant word or an interested question to each. At the door she turned to give the assembled company a sweeping look and bow. Apparently each individual felt it to be for him, and afterward from their conversation about her it was easy to see she had captivated all the group, to whom she had deigned that evening to show herself.

My début was a matter of intense excitement to me. I was so young that my parents' decision to let me go out interested all their friends. In my life it meant that changes, which a young girl accomplishes usually by degrees were made at one sweep. I continued my lessons until the New Year of 1893, and wore short skirts and my hair in a pigtail, and then magically I was grown, and my hair went up, while my gowns touched the ground. The sudden transition in my exterior life was reflected in my mentality, also. I was old at once—much older than ever again I expect to be—and felt that the dolls which had collected about me during my Vienna life must disappear. Their presence seemed a humiliation, and over-night I found I no longer cared for them. Also, I had a solemnly grand time putting my study-books away, tearing up the copy-books, disposing of all the signs of child-hood and education.

I did not in the least fear any of the new experiences I was to have, but felt quite confident that being grown was very wonderful and very well worth while. I do not believe it occurred to me that making one's début meant fun or anything else very light. It was too important an event, and I rearranged the little frame to which I was accustomed with somewhat the same attitude of mind in which a man makes his will—I must be renovated completely, and give my whole mind up, as I would my time, to new ideas and new habits. I expected to write a few letters and do a little sewing, read a book or make conversation like the majority of grown-up women whom I knew, and for the rest of my days, to be entirely taken with the business of society.

I was too young to realize how foolish was my theory of what was to come—too young to have had any previous experience to measure by; and it was no wonder that very many of the men who talked to me during the next few months were amused. I had lived away from girls of my own age, and had been so entirely dependent of on my parents for companionship that I was peculiarly simple and unpretentious, sure everything old with the sanction of custom must be right, and that all the world was like my own home circle. I had never even been allowed to read the newspapers, and in the family—with no sister and no girl cousin near my age—I had been alone of my kind, absorbed in the interests my parents had chosen for me, which were quite childish as to pleasures and quite elderly as to duties. In the light of present-day young girls' bringing up, and even compared with that of others in those days, my education was out of the common, and as I made my appearance in the great world, to play my small part in its life, I must have been a rather quaint little figure.

At just sixteen and a half, I was taller than the aver-age, and slim, and from much training I held myself very straight. My hair was not put up on my head, for my mother thought me too young, but my braid, which was heavy and shiny, was twisted by myself, and fastened in a great bundle low on the nape of my neck. I was very much pleased when the dressmakers tried on my ball gowns, with their ugly rounded queer decollété cut straight across the front and back and down off the shoulders, as prescribed by court tradition. They said it was a blessing mademoiselle had such charming shoulders ! It had never occurred to me that shoulders differed one pair from another, nor had I looked at mine; and my mother, the only person who had ever probably been interested, had not spoken of their existence save to tell me to keep them straight.

The dresses, three in number, made for me by the great Drécoll himself, fitted and hung beautifully. I regretted that as a young girl I was not allowed to wear a train, but my skirts nearly touched the ground, which was a consolation. I had nothing to say about their choosing. My mother had excellent taste and I was de-lighted with the fine feathers which were to be mine.

At that time Drécoll was reviving crinoline lines, and all my splendor swung out from my small waist to the whalebone which held the skirt bottom stiffly, giving almost the amusing silhouette of 183o. One dress had soft white ruffles of transparent gauze, and its stiff satin waist was covered with clear crystal beads strung like a chandelier. I had never seen anything prettier, never dreamed such a lovely dress would be mine, and to cap the climax I had white satin slippers and long gloves for the first time. The second gown was of Nile-green gauze ruffled over silver cloth from top to toe, and seemed extremely grand to me; while the .third was of coral-pink tulle, with ribbons of different widths sewed horizontally round its skirt—a tiny one at the hips and a broad one at the lower edge. I found myself losing a good deal of my solemnity, as I whirled about in the privacy of my own room, to see how the airy skirts would swing. I had tried on the dresses after they came home, and as I stopped and looked into the mirror, I saw I was all rosy from the exercise and my pleasure in it.

For some days I went about with my mother and father, calling. In the legation's large, deep landau, and at the various embassies and palaces, this going out and being presented took on a serious aspect. Each of my mother's acquaintances said the same things, when my mother would announce that she had brought her little girl to introduce her, as "We We are taking her to the coming court ball"; and I made my curtseys and answered always how interesting it would be, when I was asked if I was glad. Most of the women patted me on the cheek or the shoulder, and said I was a gentille fillette, and wished me great success ; and my mother impressed upon me that I must enjoy all this; that I was getting it, because it was the only time I would ever see anything so picturesque and historically interesting, and that I must carry the memory of it with me always. My father would pat my cheek and say he wanted me to see what the old court life was like before he carried me off home, and he always added: "I want my little girl to have a good time." I must admit these dull visits did not seem to me agreeable or impressive, and it was with keen impatience that I awaited the great evening of my first court ball.

I had several advantages over other débutantes of the season. Firstly, I had very young parents, and until that moment my mother had been an enthusiastic dancer and a belle at all the balls. Though only thirty-eight and looking ten years younger, she decided she and I could not dance at the same parties, so she stopped, and thus swung her. numerous partners among the diplomats over to my use. Secondly, I spoke the Viennese-patois as well as French with ease, and felt, in fact, rather more at home in those two languages than in my native tongue. Thirdly, I was too young to have any thought in going about, beyond the sheer joy of a healthy young animal in living, and I was too unspoiled not to admire and fully appreciate all the beautiful and picturesque sides of every entertainment, while every fibre in me responded to the rhythm of a good Strauss waltz.

I had been to a number of small Contessen soirées, a kind of gathering which I believe was known only to Viennese society—real evening parties in semiball array, with refreshments, music, cards, or conversation, lasting from nine o'clock until about midnight, with no chaperons and no men. No married women came to these fêtes; they were entirely made up of young girls, and with liberty complete those present indulged in the gaiety, laughter, and song their bubbling spirits craved, and time flew. I enjoyed myself vastly. It was the first time I had ever been anywhere alone, and I liked all these girls extremely. They asked me to a great many reunions. Each one called every one else by her first name and used the familiar "thou," making for intimacy at once. The girls I had known before, like Fanny and Thérèse Liechtenstein, saw to it that I should meet thus the large circle of their cousins.

There was another kind friend who helped me much in this way, too-Countess Louise Taaffe, whose father was in the cabinet. He adored his daughter and did all he could to distract her from her fragile health and much suffering caused by a deformed spine. Lovely eyes and hair accentuated the pallor of her interesting face, and she wore simple, dark, loose gowns, old laces, and a few fine jewels. In her father's ministerial palace she was established in the largest and most pleasant rooms, and she filled these with beautiful things, with flowers and with music. I spend so much time here I try to tempt my friends to join me," was her smiling reply to compliments on the apartment's attractiveness. But she rarely invited men, though she could do so without a thought of impropriety or the necessity of a chaperon, as she had been made a canoness of one of the established religious orders, and this rank conferred upon her the privileges of a married woman. She loved the gay laugh-ter of her girl friends, and often gave Contessen soirées, to which I went. I thought her very pretty, in spite of her deformity. Her culture and intelligence and her readiness to be cheerful were quite charming, and I formed for the first time a warm friendship with a person of my own sex and somewhere near my years.

Besides pleasure in her company she gave me much help, for I discovered that to the men she knew, she had spoken of me and told them to be kind and give the little stranger a good time. Also hers and other such parties, made me at home among the girls, and they in their kindly feeling introduced to me many of their partners at the first big function.

Never once was I made a victim of any of the small mean pin-pricks of which one usually hears girls complain on entering society. All these comrades, from first to last, gave me the warmest welcome and the best feeling they could, and I felt sincerely I was one of them-selves. Some were very pretty, all wore their clothes well, were extremely graceful and smart, and had a fair, soft look. Invariably they had nice manners. Young Countess Hunyady was a beauty, with all the elegance of her handsome father, grand marshal of the court. She and Countess Mitzi Harrach were the best dancers by general admission, and were both rich and very gay, much surrounded by young officers of the guard regiments; Countess Clotilde Mensdorff had a charm and distinction all her own, and the older men who looked for conversation gathered about her always. The best were a joyous group, typical of their country in the sparkling spirits and the warm hearts, which composed old Viennese society.

I was reacting to all these influences as I dressed for the great ball, and I thought it showed only in slightly heightened color or in a faster measure to my beating pulses. I had not thought at all about whether I would have success and partners. No one had spoken of that to me and I had forgotten about it, in the general effect that the anticipation of going out had on me. So I was quite lacking in anxiety and only glad to don my finery and to go to see the court.

My toilet finished, I went to show myself to my parents, and with a lock of hair changed here and there or a pin added to my dress my mother gave me a last careful inspection. Then she put on my throat a beautiful old necklace of Mexican filigree. I had never worn any-thing so grand before, and it went admirably with the silver and crystal on my gown. I think, when my mother told me, I would do if I only held up straight and tried to have good manners, that I was quite the happiest person who started for the old Hofburg that night.

My father saw me all decked out and pretended not to know me. Then he said: "My little girl is looking terribly fine to-night. It is all very pretty, sweetheart, but you must not go and really grow up, as I don't want to lose my little girl"; and then for a tonic my mother told me in a good-natured tone: "Well, no one will notice such a young girl, but you must just stand about and look on, and answer if you are spoken to, and in case any one does look toward you, that gown is really very handsome. So don't think about yourself now, but take in all the picturesque customs and the great people, whom later you will be glad to remember." Whereupon her evening cloak was put over her own slim figure in radiant rose brocade, and she led the way down to the waiting carriage.

A little drive through the dark and cold of a winter's night, and we found ourselves in the line of diplomatic carriages, moving slowly up in single file to the great pal-ace doors. There, on alighting, one lost one's identity in the feeling of general excitement and tense expectation. At the bottom of the long, high staircase Franz took our wraps and we glanced in a mirror as we passed. There were no cloak-rooms, or dressing-rooms, for a last prink, but my mother gave my ruffles a little fluffing up with her fan and straightened my silver belt; then she whispered: "Now you must do all the things indicated, at once and without asking questions, and if no one invites you to dance, never mind, but just stand and look on. If any one does ask you, then accept and look pleased, and when the Emperor speaks to you remember to reply in whatever language he uses, and speak clearly—you don't have to be at all shy."

Just then a very nice and very clever secretary of the Dutch Legation came up and joined us. He had previously asked me to dance the cotillion with him, and now he said with smiling amiability, after the exchange of good evenings: "I see it is a most beautiful vision you are to-night, mademoiselle, and I am happy to think I am so fortunate as to be the partner of such a dancer. You will be the belle of the ball !"

My mother answered for me: "Baron, how kind ! But you must not spoil my daughter. She is only sixteen and came just like a little girl to look on at this wonderful fête. She does not expect many invitations to dance."

And the kindly man returned quite positively: "Well, perhaps, madam, you are right; but unless my judgment is much at fault, I fear I shall have few opportunities to dance with my own partner. Shall we go up to the hall ? There are several young colleagues, who made me promise I would present them to mademoiselle before the circle, if you consent ? "

One of the ambassadors came in with his wife and we all wandered up the great stairs lined with sentinels and flunkies, and at the top were received by an officer of the court, who directed us to the hall where the Emperor was to make his official round of the diplomatic circle.

I trod on air. Though I did not believe the amiable baron's words, he had offered me the first compliment I had ever had, and this was my first ball. My dress was pretty, and I began to think there was a very pleasant time ahead, though I was vague as to what form it would take. Anyhow, as I followed my parents into the beautiful white room, I trod on air.

The scene of my presentation at the Austrian court was a handsome room in the more modern part of the palace, and its decorations in white-and-gold wood panelling, with brilliant brocade, were Empire, or later, in style. The fine proportions and lighting by many wax candles made an appropriate setting for diplomats, who were all decked out in their best finery. My father and his secretaries were the only men in simple evening dress and stood out, marked by this, in the throng, where most of the masculine portion rivalled the ladies in wearing splendid gold and silver lace and multicolored clothes—red, blue, green, and white. The American naval and military attachés were well qualified to hold their own, for, though less trimmed, their full-dress uniforms were well cut, and both Captain Hein and Lieutenant Sargeant were magnificent specimens of our national man-hood.

By degrees as various groups came, the chamberlain in charge sorted out the component elements and arranged them according to the rank of each mission's chief, this point being, decided by the length of time since each ambassador or minister had presented his credentials to the sovereign. It caused much comment always that the United States should not send an Ambassador in-stead of a Minister; and should, in spite of her importance in the world, by her own choice take a second place at court. It was as if the country did not feel its real value. This and dressing her envoy in a swallow-tail coat at court functions, whether they occurred at 10 A. M. or were gala evening parties (thus putting the American Minister on a par with the hired waiters), seemed to us, as it has to many a representative, some-what unfair. Both these old customs have now been changed, and the ambassadors of the United States at present rank with those of other first-class nations, wearing a dignified uniform, quieter than those of Europe, but, like our military and naval dress, showing good taste, material, and cut.

Shortly after our entrance, several men were introduced to me, and each paid me the banal little compliment the occasion demanded. All the younger ones asked me not to forget them in the ballroom later. I was also presented by my mother to such of her women colleagues as I had not met before. There were very few who were handsome among them. Lady Paget was altogether regal, while my mother's dark beauty was at its best.

Suddenly we were all silent, and the three raps on the floor had just been heard, announcing the solemn entry of the Emperor and his court, when a little frightened exclamation at our left attracted attention. My mother turned, as I did, only to hear Madam G , the wife of one of the ministers, say: "What shall I do ? If I could only get behind you all, and not have to stand out here in the first line, where every one can see ! " She was looking down at her feet, and seemed ready to cry; and naturally our eyes followed hers to her slippers. The poor little woman, through absence of mind, had changed her stockings to go with her white gown, and then, perhaps meaning to change later, or simply from inattention, had slipped on her bedroom slippers. They were small and of some bright color, much betrimmed, but they did not go with her gown.

To me it seemed the woman's situation was as painful as she found it herself, but my mother was not so disturbed and said coolly enough : "It doesn't at all matter. Those look very pretty; any one who notices will think you are trying to start a new fashion in wearing a contrast, and once the circle is over, our feet won't be in view. Anyhow, there is nothing to do, for here comes the Emperor."

Then we, as well as the victim of the strange mistake and all others in the room, turned toward the door, where the Emperor stood bowing and smiling genially, with the Duchess of Cumberland on his arm. We all curtseyed and the long procession advanced into the room. It broke up into informal groups to chat and wait, while the Emperor and the Archduchess Maria Theresa, representing the empress, went round the long semicircle of diplomats, speaking to the chief of each mission and his wife, as well as to any new members of the various embassies and legations, who had not as yet been introduced at court.

The Emperor began with the senior ambassador and moved on rather rapidly down the line, without, how-ever, any signs of being bored or hurried. He also left all the men and women convinced it was a pleasure for him, the Emperor, to have those few words with his guests. It was all the effect of a rather intimate simplicity of manner, which was the sovereign's marked characteristic in society, for he rarely talked Iengthily or seriously to any one. He approached my father and mother and said in French, with a warm handshake : "How are you, Colonel Grant ? Good evening, madam ! I hear your little girl is here to-night and that she is very gentille. I must meet her."

Immediately my parents separated a little, and as I stepped forward and curtseyed low, His Majesty held out a cordial hand, which grasped mine hard for a moment. He looked at me with a quick, pleasant glance which took in everything. In French he spoke again: "I'm glad you came to my ball, Mademoiselle, and I hope you will find it pretty and will enjoy yourself. You will, if you speak German; our people love those who speak their language and are at home among them. You have been years here with your father—have you learned to speak ? "

I answered in German: "Ja, Majestät ! I do speak German rather better than English, and I am quite at home in Vienna. One could not dislike such a beautiful place.

The Emperor threw his head back and laughed with real amusement. "But you speak Viennese—it is quite charming ! Where did you learn our patois?" And I said I had picked it up, because I found it so much prettier than North Gelman. Whereupon His Majesty looked exceedingly pleased and amused, and went on to ask me a number of questions in quick succession.

Finally he said, "I am sure you will have great suecess, and I shall watch it with pleasure ! "—and with a supple bow to me and saying to my mother, "I congratulate you, Madam Grant," he passed on to the neighboring group and spoke to the wearer of the bedroom slippers.

I did not have time to see whether he noticed these, as the archduchess was upon us, and after she had exchanged a few words with my mother and father, whom she already knew well, I was presented to Her Imperial Highness. Maria Theresa was a most lovely apparition that night, in soft white with splendid diamonds on her dress and neck, a spreading brilliant diadem in the heavy curls and braids of her remarkably fine hair. She had a delicate, high-bred face, large luminous brown eyes and a slim figure, which she carried with much pride. Her expression was very sympathetic and her voice gentle and low, and though she said but a few words to me be-fore she passed on, she made those pleasant, and with an attractive smile wished me success. She was the wife of Archduke Charles Louis, the Emperor's brother, but she was scarcely older than her senior stepson, Francis Ferdinand, heir apparent to the throne. It was said she suffered greatly from being transported into the Vienna wintry weather, that she had lung trouble, and was very fragile and sad; but she showed none of this at a court ball, and' filled her rôle with distinguished certainty of gesture and action, which made every one present keep the memory of her grace.

As the circle finished, the procession reformed and the Emperor led the way, offering his arm again to the Duchess of Cumberland. They were followed by the Duke of Cumberland and the Archduchess Maria Theresa, then the rest of the imperial family, and after them we all fell into line, embassies first and legations following these, each according to the rank of its chief.

Our march was a long one, through the halls of the new portion of the Hofburg, then into the older portion, where some of the rooms were smaller, but where the materials and decorations used on floors and walls were much rarer and finer. The furniture also was more beautiful, and valuable collections and objects of art stood about : Italian Renaissance work, rare bronze and amber objects, Gobelin tapestries and Louis XV furniture and silks, beautiful carvings, glass from Venice and Bohemia, and lacquer or porcelains from the Orient—too much to do more than notice as we went by.

My excitement had been mounting ever since the first door opened early in the evening, when I had stepped into the palace, and by this time I was keyed to a much higher pitch. Finally we moved through an archway and found ourselves in the immense ballroom of the Hapsburgs, where for centuries back they had held their court. No wonder it had attained a splendid reputation ! To my inexperience the space seemed vast, and the crowd impossible to count. There were men in uniform, civil and military, and in wonderful Hungarian national or family costumes, with jewelled swords, buckles, and buttons on their velvets—dark, swarthy types, who wore their splendor so it seemed part of themselves. The women had to do their best to keep pace with these men, whether in Hungarian velvets or in guardsmen's scarlet and blue. They did keep up their reputation of being among the smartest in Europe, however, and gave a confused impression of diamonds and other jewels, and of clothes no less lovely because they were less vivid than the men's. Some raised seats arranged about the walls on one side were for the archduchesses and the older ladies of the court; and for the wives of foreign representatives there were seats on the other side. I had heard there was to be a seated supper for all these, while the gentlemen and we, the dancers, were to sup at a buffet. Also, I was told that at court, because the Emperor never sat down, but moved continuously among his guests, we would stand for the cotillion and between dances.

Another curious detail was connected with the presence of several ministers of the government, who were self-made men and had been named to their high rank because of their talents. These kept apart, knowing none save one another or a few foreigners. The Emperor spoke to each member of his cabinet, and then they stood about rather helplessly, but apparently contented with a lot which aroused my curiosity by its lonesomeness. I found on inquiry, that all the cabinet came by right to a court ball; but only for the time he was in office was the self-made man asked, and he, as did all others who had not sixteen quarterings—or four generations of noble birth in every direction—knew he had no right to a court presentation. Therefore no such man ever asked to meet the proud aristocracy who formed the élite. It seemed quaint to accept such a situation in such a submissive spirit, when their brains were admittedly necessary to carry on the administration of government, and I was surprised to think these men the moment they left office went quietly back into their earlier spheres.

I heard further that a woman who married one of the nobility, but did not possess the requisite sixteen quarterings, not only could not- go to court herself but destroyed the chances of her children and. grandchildren. Four generations must pass, even if the Emperor ennobled her in her own right, before the stain of her plebeian blood could be eradicated from the family ! This seemed strange to our American ideas, and not without a note of the grotesque in its excess—but Austria claimed to be the most exclusive court in Europe, and I suppose one must sacrifice something to such a reputation ! Any-how, it suited the Austrians.

In a few moments our procession had moved slowly down into the centre of the splendid company assembled, and as the Emperor turned and bowed to the Duchess of Cumberland the dance music struck up-such music as ears rarely hear—a Strauss waltz by an orchestra unrivalled in all Europe, for by imperial command Strauss himself held the conductor's baton, and none but his own music was played for the dancing. Ears of sixteen and feet as young were keen to follow the call of such rhythmic strains, and I was delighted when a young secretary from Italy's Embassy asked me to dance.

When we ended our turn, up came another and another, and a great number of the Austrians also were introduced, and soon I had forgotten the treasures of the pal-ace and the formalities of court, and was waltzing with the intense enjoyment I had always felt at dancing school. One officer or civilian dancer looked like another to me, and their names were a jumble in my mind that night. Leaving this question to straighten out at leisure, I gave myself up wholly to the joy of the exciting music, the perfect floor, and the admirable partners, who probably represented the best dancers in Europe. Once I encountered the Emperor passing in the throng and he smiled amiably and said, "I see the ball goes well"; but I do not recall any other incident of mark. The younger archdukes were introduced and we danced, but they were not so good at waltzing as most of the other men, and my interest in them was lessened at once.

Finally came supper, and my Hollander appeared with an amused look, to ask if I recognized him and remembered our engagement. Then he dragged me off for some sort of light food. We were joined by a number of other men, and I had a pleasant time of it; and as soon as the music played we rushed back to waltz again and again, until at some signal the party was over, the royalty bowed and retired, and every one began to push forward toward the various doors, each group in a hurry to reach the exit nearest his or her carriage.

I had suddenly realized I was in a great crowd alone, when my father touched me on the shoulder and said: "Suppose you come home, little girl. Was it nice ?"

He and my mother looked no more tired than I felt, and she had had a gay time also. In the carriage, which Franz had managed to produce at the desired moment, my father said, laughing, "I don't know what I shall do, chaperoning two such belles here in a strange country"; and he added: "I was very proud of my little girl to-night and had a great many compliments for her." And my mother said, rather elated, that the Emperor and the Duchess of Cumberland and various archduchesses had all noticed me and spoken of the way I danced and held myself. And then by way of training she added: "I hope you won't lose your head and hold yourself less straight ; you will lose all you gained to-night if you grow careless."

I had not spoiled my pretty gown, either,, and that pleased my mother, as she had seen several others torn by the smart officers' spurs. When we got back home I was quickly sent to bed, so I should not be "green," for next day there was to be another party, and a long sea-son of them to follow. So I quickly laid aside my finery and tumbled into bed, not feeling in the least weary, but only with a blissful jumble of memories as an end to the great day of my first ball.

After that there were a lot of splendid fêtes, in which I had rather more than my share of pleasure, it was said. The young men's faces became less confused in my mind, and several were so kind that I rather felt they belonged to my own special little circle. A few I met later in America or in Russia, where our old warm relations were renewed with pleasure. Two more court balls occurred, as brilliant and official as the first; also a third gathering, called technically a "Ball at Court," which was a fête more intimate and gayer, about half the size of the court balls, and where every one sat down to supper in one banqueting-hall. Diplomats and officials of the government were usually omitted from this party. We were asked, and felt much honored, and the Emperor said by way of explanation, "Your little girl likes dancing so much, I thought it would amuse her to come"; and it seemed various colleagues were quite frankly envious and surprised over our good luck.

There were balls at several embassies, the French ball being perhaps the most attractive, because of the ancient frame the Lobkowitz palace offered and because also of the becoming candle-light. There were several private balls in the huge palaces of some of the great aristocrats, one at Count and Countess Harrach's, where one almost got lost in the 'many salons, filled with all the imperial family and the court, as well as society. It was here I saw for the first time the pretty custom of a host accompanying each married archduchess to her carriage, pre-ceded down the stairway by two lackeys carrying flambeaux—in this case represented by candelabra of many branches trimmed with lighted candles. The Harrach palace was one of the oldest in the city, and was filled with beautiful things dating back through centuries of family history. One felt transported to the days of Maria Theresa as one looked on at the perfect fête given by candle-light. It was a picture with a perfume of ancient times.

The ball at the Marquis Palavicini's was more gorgeous as to its flowers and the proportions of the vast rooms, where the same number of people did not seem a crowd, and where the light was brighter and the jewels and gowns showed more individuality; but it was less quaint than the first or than were the fêtes given in several of the older palaces—such as the soirées of the old but still beautiful Countess Clam-Gallas, a ball at the Larish pal-ace and one at Prince Hohenlohe's, as well as two balls at the Duke of Cumberland's. These last deserve a word of special mention.

The Duke and Duchess of Cumberland possessed great wealth, and he was the eldest son of the blind old King of Hanover, whom Bismarck had dethroned. Various countries had refused this king a hospitality which promised to be indefinite; but the court of Austria, true to its traditions of birth, accepted the exiles and made them welcome. The old blind refugee had lingered for a time, and then died, mourning his lost throne. His son had never used the title of king, but had taken his father's second title, which was English. He styled himself Duke of Cumberland, was phenomenally ugly, and about fifty, cultivated and amiable, though far from a brilliant man. The duchess was fifteen or more years younger in looks, with a very pretty figure, complexion, and eyes, and by her charming manner won many friends. In society she was received with sympathy, and went with-out her husband frequently to the balls, even very informal ones, where she danced with an enthusiasm equal to my own. It was an unusual thing to do in Vienna, as none of the archduchesses, once married, seemed to dance much, but in the Duchess of Cumberland such action was never criticised, since in spite of it her dignity was maintained. Her clothes and jewels were perfect and her manner was always gracious and gay. She was surrounded invariably by a group of friends, her corner in a salon being one where conversation and laughter never lagged. She was the youngest daughter of old King Christian of Denmark, and her two sisters were the then Princess of Wales—now the Dowager Queen of England—and the Dowager Empress of Russia.

The Cumberland palace was out of town, at Penzing, and stood in a great park, where the duke and duchess lived in royal state and entertained constantly. Large Sunday luncheons regularly took place there, and musicales. Two balls, besides rather informal small and very agreeable parties, occurred during the short season I was out, and we were fortunately of those invited, for my father had met the hostess, when the latter was a young girl, at the Danish court, and she had at once declared they were old friends, when they met again in Vienna. She had charming children, two boys and several little girls. The eldest boy came often to play with my small brother, or the latter went to Penzing. My father and the Duke of Cumberland found much in history and politics to talk of, while the duchess and my mother were most congenial, too.

When I was taken to their first party my father pointed out some of the interesting collections of which the pal-ace boasted, and chief among these the Hanover silver. There was one room, a large one, with silver furniture—not just painted, but of metal, modelled and chased most beautifully, while their table silver was famous both for its taste and vast quantity. When the Cumberlands gave a ball the entire company sat down at tables where the centrepieces were subjects of conversation, and one gasped to think that the whole supper was served on silver plate, change after change occurring for the various courses, the supply apparently inexhaustible.

The duchess to me was the attraction of her own fêtes, as of any others where she chanced to be, and I always felt her sympathy with my own craze for dancing. Once I found her in a side-room having her tulle draperies mended, and she looked up and laughed to see I had turned in to help my own rags, of the same material, with pins.

"These spurs are dreadful," she said gaily. "One feels quite ashamed to be in such a condition, but it is great fun to dance, and I enjoy it, even if it is silly and I'm too old. Your dress is all right now. Run back and dance some more."

The Hohenlohes had a palace out on the edge of the city, surrounded with something of a garden. It was one of those imperial palaces built in late eighteenth-century style, and the effect was of an American colonial country house—no very high ceilings except in the ballroom, which, as I remember, was square, with columns and a round dome. This room was lighted by many windows on three sides. Prince Hohenlohe lived here, and filled one of the great posts at court; I think he was the Grand Master of Ceremonies. He was short, rather red-faced, and had grown a bit heavy with years, but he had charming manners, and seemed to enjoy his own party and to wish others to do likewise.

All the appointments were well carried out, especially the flowers for the cotillion. As it was spring, these were largely lilacs, and the big bouquets made a charming effect in the dancers' arms. They had been brought in clothes-baskets and the latter were standing about on the outskirts of the circling pairs. My partner seized one to lay my flowers in, and having piled that full, a second one was brought and also filled, thus leaving my arms and chair free. As we drove away in the early dawn my father was delighted with his little girl's success, and said, pinching my cheek, he would soon have to hire a truck for my bouquets. Even Franz was rather excited to be hoisting two clothes-baskets and tying them on the top of the legation landau, overflowing with flowers, but it was my last ball in Vienna, and all my partners of the winter were trying to show their regret at my departure.

One funny and very attractive custom in Vienna was that of the picnic balls. Either a group of young men or a group of young couples, anxious to repay kindness or merely to do their share of entertaining, clubbed together, planned and carried out a ball in some one of the restaurants or hotels rented for the occasion. Such fêtes were always well arranged in every detail, with excellent supper, floor, and Hungarian gypsy band. Those giving it considered their guests paid them a compliment by staying later than was done at private balls, and to make such parties a real success one had to take one's morning coffee before going home to bed. About the only one of the royalties who went was the Duchess of Cumberland, and save the girls' chaperons no non dancers were asked. A few mothers were invited to play hostess, and there were card-tables to amuse such of the elders as cared for gaming.

The prettiest feature, and one I have seen nowhere else, was that each young man at those balls supplied his own cotillion flowers. Naturally each tried to outdo his rivals, and it made for very fine and ingenious bouquets. The men displayed their taste, and we counted, among the girls, who should get most. I remember O'Neill, who, in spite of an Irish name, was the Chargé from Portugal, had his bouquets all of violets, `and to my joy a large one always came my way; while young Count Larish had always roses; and there were those who had roses of one color only. Others used nothing but white or purple lilacs, or all daffodils, narcissus, or valley lilies; and some stupid or unfortunate ones who did not know of this detail's importance left their flowers to the vendor's taste; we girls rather disdained their lack of care. The smart Austrian men's club, the young diplomats, and various other groups each gave functions that sea-son which were among the gayest. Altogether I had twenty-three balls in a few. short weeks, besides many agreeable soirées.

One of the Emperor's little granddaughters—the daughter of Princess Gisela, of Bavaria—became engaged to the young Archduke Joseph. He was wealthy and be-longed to that branch of the imperial family living in Hungary. They seemed vastly in love with one another, though not at all a good-looking pair of fiancés. We little realized that this boy was to be commander-in-chief of the Austrian armies in the great World War twenty-one years later !

At the end of the season there was also a wedding at court, which was the occasion of much pomp. The Arch-duchess Margaret, a most charming girl, was married to the heir to the Wurttemberg throne. It was a pretty ceremony, with a few of the diplomats invited into a loge of the imperial chapel to see the pageant. The bride was well worth looking at, for in her long white robes her tall slenderness seemed particularly fine, and her delicate face was quite lovely. Her beautiful stepmother, Maria Theresa, looked as young and radiant as usual. We heard the imperial family thought the match appropriate and satisfactory, and I wondered as I watched the contracting parties, who knew nothing of one another, if they would find even a moderate share of happiness in such a union. She would be a queen in time, it was thought. Poor Margaret's fate was different, for within a few short years she died, a victim to the lung weakness which even before her marriage had marked her with a fragile look. Of course the Emperor, archdukes, the court, and the guardsmen assisted at these ceremonies, but they were no longer new to me, so, though I liked the color and the light, I was not quite so thrilled as I had been at first.

I fancy a good deal of gossip about Vienna's ways was handed about in the diplomatic corps. Its members never got the true versions of personal stories, but only the somewhat twisted accounts given them by outside hangers-on—German teachers and such, who went from house to house circulating a good deal of nonsense, with some truth, alas ! Various tales were told of the Arch- duke Otto's dissipations and his disrespect for all things serious in life—how he abandoned his wife, whom my mother liked extremely and found always very sad; how he had one morning, after a drinking bout, taken a ride on horseback through the city, and seeing a funeral had stopped it, while, on a bet, he made a hurdle of the hearse ; how even the tolerant Emperor had talked to him, trying to quell this unruly nephew. We heard it whispered also that Francis Ferdinand, the heir apparent, was much disliked; that the Emperor despaired of teaching him the way to win his subjects. Then we were told the em-press was given to fits of depression, which made tier quite abnormal and difficult to deal with. There was endless gossip, also, as to the vices in the circles of high finance.

After whispering over all this the talkers would straighten up and some one would say with great decision, "I I don't believe a word of it ! That person doesn't look as if he did such things; and people exaggerate so. Still, they do say "—and the whispering would begin anew.

Later as we came home my mother would ask father if he thought the story they had been told was true, and he tolerantly would say: "Well, I don't know; but if it is, there isn't anything we can do about it." And so the question would drop for a time.

One family whose members kept tongues wagging was that of Prince Philip of Coburg, who took high place at court when he chose to appear there as visiting royalty. He was an exceedingly important-looking man, about forty-five, handsome still, though somewhat heavy. He wore his uniform with great elegance and received with amiability at the splendid parties which he gave. He was rather above medium height, with thin, close-cropped hair, a clipped beard, an aquiline nose, and very keen, clever, amused eyes. He was very intelligent and cultivated, an admirable talker, well up on all questions of the day. I do not remember why he chose Vienna to live in, but I fancy there must have been some excellent reason, He was connected with both England and Germany through the Coburg family, and he had French royal blood through his mother, who was a daughter of King Louis Philippe. He was connected with Belgium and Austria, too, by his wife, who was the pretty sister of the widowed Austrian Crown Princess Stéphanie. He seemed to know all sorts of interesting secrets, diplomatic as well as personal, and ,he had great capacities, yet apparently he did nothing much but shoot, collect books, and talk. He had the reputation of intriguing overmuch, and he was not popular, but apparently did not care. He had been an intimate friend of the dead crown prince, and was with him at the party where Rudolf and the Vetésra had died. Perhaps for this reason one saw little of him at court. My father and he had many a long talk, however, and the former maintained that Prince Philip was, in spite of his defects, one of the most interesting personalities he had met abroad. For some time, even after we returned to America, letters were exchanged between them.

Now and again an official function was given at the Coburg palace. It was a huge, dark, forbidding pile—rich but ugly in effect, and of a bad period. As one entered one was surprised by the height of the impressive stairs, and on every step stood two retainers, one at each side, in the family hussar uniform, we were told. It was of Empire style, and these two long lines of men were most effective. At the top of the staircase Prince Philip received alone, and made us feel most welcome. He told us if we would turn to the right we might find the princess. We did so, and found Princess Louise sitting in one end of the great salon with her sister, while various vague guests, who had said good evening, were looking uncomfortable and edging toward the doors.

The two sisters looked much alike. Both had hair overfrizzed, the color of spun gold. Both had beautiful skin, were fair, with rosy cheeks, and both had very handsome figures dressed in the height of the fashion. Stéphanie was known to have had a miserable existence until her widowhood, and—rather unjustly, because of Rudolf's popularity-she was made to bear some blame for his end. One felt she suffered from this, while, perhaps from a fear of criticism, she was timid to excess. It made her always try to get into a corner, away from every one. I felt a keen sympathy for her, her smile was so strained; yet really she was glad to talk a little, and always said something gentle and amiable. I was told the Emperor was very friendly to his poor daughter-in-law and tried to help her in various ways; but, on the whole, her life was sad and extremely dull and empty—until later she made it over by marrying again. Her sister was said to be content with finery and the gay life she led. Prince Philip of Coburg did not seem either for or against her, but quite indifferent; and when he spoke of her it was with perfect amiability. I fancy he had once looked her over, perhaps, and decided that though they had no single subject of interest in common she was entirely presentable and undisturbing as an element in his life.

When the rooms filled at their party, the prince left his place at the stairhead and moved among his guests, stop-ping to speak with a group here and there—a charming host, smiling and gracious. The main part of the gathering listened to a fine programme of music in the big ballroom. I sat in another room at the rear and he asked me in passing where were my parents, and said he was looking for them to take them—and me, if I would like to go—to see his mother. I showed him where my parents stood, and joined them with him after a word of excuse to my companions. He took us all through a suite of rooms to where, at the end, in a smaller and more intimate apartment, sat his mother.

She was a most picturesque figure. A lace cap much beruffled covered her head of white hair, elaborately and most carefully dressed; her strong face had massive features and sharp, quick eyes, still very piercing and intelligent. Her figure standing must have been majestic, for even sitting she was straight and strong-looking. She wore a gown of dark, rich silk or brocade, with some beautiful lace about the neck and wrists, and a few jewels in old mountings. Near her, against her little sofa, leaned a thick cane with a crook handle meant really to lean on; I believe she was a victim of gout. Evidently her son bowed down to this old lady's will, and her face and manner well became her reputation as one of the most capable managers in Europe. She was just saying she was too old to see many people or to appear at a party, and so she sat back comfortably in her quiet salon with such people as her son cared to present being brought in to her. Her talk was to the point, and her questions were sudden and concise.

Some two or three people who had been with her took their leave when we came in. Then she turned to us, and spoke to my parents of how she had heard so much of America from her father, King Louis Philippe, who had found a welcome in the United States while he was a wandering exile. She made one or two inquiries as to how this or that place had developed, and if we had ever been here or there. She spoke of my grandfather and asked some questions about him.

Finally she turned to me and said: "You have brought your little girl out to Vienna, Mrs. Grant. Do you like it here ? Do you have a pleasant time ? " I made some banal, acquiescent answer, and she continued: ``Well, you would; you look made to enjoy life. Some other people appeared in the doorway, and the old lady, turning back to my parents, ended our visit to her with a few pleasant words, short and energetic, like her gestures, and always to the point.

As we wandered off, leaving our places to the newcomers, my mother told me I must remember this presentation to the daughter of the last French king, and my father added: "You won't see many old ladies like that, pet. Even now she keeps all Europe busy watching her, and she had a great brain and wields real power."

On the way home in the carriage my parents spoke of her again, and of her second son, Ferdinand, who was at this time, or shortly afterward, placed in Bulgaria by his mother's will and influence. Many people criticised Ferdinand more than they did his elder brother, telling of his faults, but he won his way and played a great rôle in European politics until the World War. If Princess Clementine had lived long enough she would have enjoyed thoroughly watching his star rise, finally seeing him the Bulgarian Czar and a great factor in Europe's history.

There was another character in Vienna whom I saw and to whose house I often went—Princess Pauline Metternich, unique in her generation. She was at that time about fifty years old, and still possessed a very fine figure. Otherwise her appearance was more remarkable than beautiful, and she did her best to live up to her reputation for intelligence and eccentricity. Her evening dresses were always of bright hues, preferably green or yellow; she wore large aigrettes, at different angles from, any one else, and had splendid jewels, which she wore in quantities. Her face was worth studying-large, rest-less eyes which saw everything, and could be very sympathetic or humorous, reflecting her passing impulse; a short nose with an amusing tilt, and a very large, thick-lipped mouth, with sudden, generous laugh always ready, as well as a funny story or quick repartee. The mouth was exaggerated by brilliant red paint, not only on the lips but all around them, augmenting the size of this feature beyond all bounds; otherwise one had no impression of artificial make-up. Tremendously smart in her clothes, houses, and turnouts, this queer princess was a figure as well known to the Vienna populace as was the Emperor himself. She organized and planned all their public charities, and whether it was Old Vienna of the Middle Ages reconstructed and set up in the Prater for strangers from all four corners of the globe to come and see, or whether it was merely a great public ball for a minor charity, Princess Pauline Metternich's genius carried through the enterprise to a successful termination, with all the world of her city ready to work and play under her leadership.

She had her relations, as her rank and blood indicated, at court and among the aristocrats; and, besides, the high finance, the Jewish circles, the bourgeois, and the small shopkeepers knew her well. She helped each in turn, spoke the patois in its broadest form, and had a cheery word for every one. On the Ring or in the Prater, where she drove out in an extra large and high victoria swung on big springs, with magnificent horses, and lackeys in knee-breeches, the crowds stopped to see her pass, and doffed their hats. All the interesting foreigners who came to town found their way to her with letters of recommendation, and they, as well as every kind of per-son in Vienna's varied strata, were seen at her agreeable parties. She knew how to entertain one evening the Emperor, the court, and all society, and keep the function from stiffness, and another evening six or eight would gather about her tea-table informally, sure of a brilliant conversational treat.

The princess was admittedly a genius, and her light shone very brightly on the background of Vienna's rather narrow-minded society. In her work she was ably seconded by her quiet, well-bred, and charming daughter, Princess Clementine Metternich, who apparently was in no way like her mother, and shunned a prominent rôle, though she had many friends and much intelligence. The old prince depended a good deal on his daughter, was most amiable in showing interest in his wife, but one fancied he was rather fatigued by her ways at times, and a little uncertain as to what she might do next. He was her own uncle. He had therefore seen Princess Pauline grow up, and I heard had no cause to regret his match. She had been a great success wherever he had placed her, especially in Paris, where the Austrian Emperor had sent Prince Metternich as ambassador to the court of Napoleon III. At that post he had done good work, it was said, and the princess had taken a unique position, had become the intimate friend of Eugénie, and had driven boredom once and for all from the life of the French court.

I never heard of but a single failure on the part of Princess Metternich, and the tale of this was repeated about Vienna as typical not only of her daring, but of the Austrian aristocrats' unbending attitude about certain things. Baron Rothschild and his very pretty wife wished to make their way in the society of the gay capital, and Princess Metternich, whom they knew, took upon herself to try the ground before they made a venture. She went to Prince Schwarzenberg, who was to give a large soirée.

"Will you let me bring my friends Baron and Baroness Rothschild ? " she asked. "But I don't know them ; and, besides, if I asked them, they would invite me in return; and I do not want to go to their house or meet their friends," answered the old prince.

"I will see that you meet them beforehand. They are Jews, but if you ever went to their house you would meet no Jews there." "Then, my dear Pauline, if I <> could go to the Rothschilds' house and meet no Jews, tell me why people should come to my house and meet Jews," was the final and decisive reply.

The story was much repeated. In the end, though, the Rothschilds, I believe, went to court, and though they made many friends and were received by a number of the broader-minded Austrians and most of the diplomats, they were blockaded by the leaders: Liechtensteins, Schwarzenbergs, and so on, who formed the ultra-powerful group at the top of society. The little baroness, who was both pretty and charming, seemed rather crushed; and before we left Vienna she died, after a long and distressing illness. We had seen a good deal of the Rothschilds, and liked her as much as he and her sister, the lovely Madame Ephrussi, had both been liked in Paris society.

I had enjoyed my Vienna season thoroughly, and had danced to my heart's content. Aside from this, I had seen much that was interesting, and had made a number of warm friends. At sixteen one becomes easily attached, and I felt I belonged to these Viennese whose language I spoke and among whom I had grown up. It caused me sincere and deep distress when we began to pack and when we moved to the hotel. The household furniture was returned to cases from which four years before it had been taken. At the ancient Hotel Munsch daily there were numbers of kindly people who came to say good-by, and then came again, seeing we were to remain still for a week or so. I was very tearful over abandoning my share of these nice friends and I had quite made up my mind that never again should I feel at home any-where or establish relations such as these had been.

At last the day of departure came, and we went to the station in the old carriage, accompanied by the same Franz who had met us early one morning more than four years ago. Franz was in tears, and I was nearly so. My parents also were sad, to leave what had been to them a very pleasant post. Flowers and sweets were brought to us in quantities; many Austrian friends were there to see us off, and nearly all the colleagues came in a large crowd. There was great excitement, and as we pulled out of the station waving hats and sounds of good wishes followed us.