College Girl And Her Wardrobe
( Originally Published 1924 )
The following list of occasions for which clothing is needed has been suggested by the Dean of Women of one of our universities :
Utility costumes—including umbrella of same tone for : Campus, travel, shopping, games ;
Church, lectures, recitals ;
Calling, matinées, lunch in public places.
Informal social affairs—requiring semi-dress:
Guest at receptions, luncheons, teas, dinners in public places ;
Guest at dinner, theater dance; performer at afternoon recitals ; evening oratorical contest ;
Hostess at dinner, reception.
Formal social affairs—requiring evening gown:
Dinner, evening reception, dance, box at opera or theater;
Performer at evening recital or reading.
Sports, hikes ;
Negligées—including quilted or felt boudoir slippers; For the privacy of rooms and corridors ;
Graduation—out for :
Baccalaureate and commencement;
Dean's reception, alumni luncheon, president's reception.
For golf, tennis, ball games, and other athletics, any sporting-goods dealer can indicate and supply individual needs; therefore no effort will be made to discuss them.
The college girl sets the pace in dress. To-day she may wear a pair of white sandals, and lo! the die is cast ; the sandal's the thing. A popular girl is back of all college fashion (which is the preponderance of style) because college girls still continue to play "follow the leader."
The first requisite in the college girl's wardrobe should be a serviceable yet attractive "all around" type of dress which has style and freedom.
A general type of dress can be obtained which answers all of those requirements. Think of the joy of owning a dress that is not forever in need of a button or a pressing, a dress that is non-shiny and rain damage-proof, a cheer-up, immaculate garment which, if you like, may have one or two real pockets, generous enough in size to be useful. Neatly hidden under a plait or revere there may even be a narrow slip for a fountain pen or a pencil. For comfort and convenience what more could one ask?
The chief charm of a girl or a woman is her immaculateness, her daintiness. A dress which can be dry cleaned and reappear as fresh as a new one is an aid to a woman's expression of herself in daintiness. For this "Pot of Gold" dress, one can always have fresh cream or white linen or lace collar and cuffs ready to snap on. And one may have a gay gingham set which responds to the tennis or golf urge. Or a more formal plaited silk vestee, with collars and cuffs to give one a little more "dressed up" feeling for the informal after-noon tea festivity.
In the one-piece, slip-on dress, suitable for the varied round of classroom, office, street, campus, sport, shopping, or traveling, one will thus be relieved of constant care of detail; one will slay the hydra-headed monster of a multiplicity of clothes to be cared for, and one will feel as free as the lords of creation whose masculine peace of mind knows not the perplexing question of whether it shall be "The new one? the blue one? or the one I wore last ?"
The top coat for school should be of plain or mannish style. A scarf of wool with such a coat is better taste than a fur neck-piece.
A small soft hat of fabric, felt, or straw, closely fitting and scantily trimmed, is in keeping with the coat.
Shoes should be oxfords, with comfortable collegiate heels and roomy toes.
Hose of the sports type, wool, or lisle-and-silk, are in accord ; but never transparent chiffon hose.
Gloves must have the quality of sturdiness, either chamoisette or leather.
Jewelry, even beads, are in poor taste for school.
For school football and basketball games, the regular clothes for the sport are most suitable.
If a girl prefers a suit to the dress, let it be either tailored or jaunty, but with the same accessories.
For afternoon occasions, her choice may be made from dresses of crêpe de Chine, Canton crêpe, taffeta, or similar materials, characterized by simplicity, and with very little trimming.
For summer, she may choose dresses of voile, organdie, and other sheer materials.
The coat for afternoon wear is usually of soft, downy material with a fur collar and cuffs or, if the purse permits, a fur coat that is not too elaborate or mature looking.
The hat may be large and ornamented with rib-bon or feather or flowers ; a turban or toque of metal cloth, gay duvetyn, or silk, or one of gay flowers gives chic to the outfit.
One may wear a simple necklace of beads with such a costume; seed pearls are lovely for girls. Collars or berthas of good lace furnish the soft light-reflecting quality which some girls feel that they need. Suitable gloves are of soft glacé kid or suède, or even silk mousquetaire; long if the sleeves of the dress are short; the color to be determined by the costume.
For dinner she may wear any one of her afternoon dresses with a variation of color in the accessories.
Informal party occasions demand bright colors, but there should be simplicity as a key-note. Patent leather low-heeled pumps with light-colored hose, or gray shoes and stockings, fit in with the informal evening party.
Formal affairs call for more "dressing up;" but here, too, simplicity should not be forgotten. Shoes of satin or of metallic cloth to harmonize with the costume, and long white or matching kid gloves are suitable. The evening wrap should be as dainty and fluffy as one can afford.
For hikes, sports, and outdoor wear, knickers are comfortable and popular.
The riding clothes should be strictly tailored. The hat may be either a sailor or a derby or even a soft felt. High riding boots are correct. A stock or high collar turned back from the throat is modish, never any fantastic frills. The riding coat may or may not match the breeches. In warm weather the riding suit may be made of heavy natural-color linen, or of light-weight firm denim or rep.
But the rules for apparel are always sufficiently flexible for little liberties; adaptations of one's most becoming "effect," if kept within the restrictions of good taste, are entirely permissible. It is, of course, important to learn the contour of one's head from all angles, to emphasize best one's particular style of face, as well as to maintain a proper proportion to the length and width of the body.