Clothing For Evening Wedding, Ball, Reception, Formal Dinner, Opera
( Originally Published 1924 )
The coat is a swallow-tail of dull-faced worsted, never broadcloth. It is untrimmed save for the satin facing and the collar which may be cut either with lapels or shawl-shaped. The buttons are plain and are never buttoned. The waistcoat may be either single- or double-breasted and is of piqué or linen, never of black brocade or of cream-colored silk. Trousers are of the same material as the coat, with wide braid on the outer seams. An English silk hat with English cloth band is worn. The shirt is white, of linen or piqué, with a stiff bosom.
Lap front, or poke, or wing collar may be chosen. Securely anchored is a white bow tie of plain linen or piqué. White glacé kid gloves are worn for the very formal occasions; white cape or suède for the theater. Pumps of patent leather, black silk hose, and white pearl links and studs; waistcoat buttons are of white enamel. Chesterfield or plain black overcoat is worn in all seasons with dress clothes. Only white or black-and-white knitted silk mufflers are worn.
Informal Occasions, Country Dance, Club, Stag, or Home Dinner
The coat is the English dinner coat or Tuxedo —a jacket coat held closed by one button which should be kept buttoned. The lapels are satin faced, but the collar is left uncovered. If the coat has a shawl collar, the whole collar is of satin. A dinner coat should not be double-breasted. The waistcoat may be of black silk, white piqué, or white semi-soft. If white is decided upon it should always be immaculate. The trousers are of the same material-as the jacket. If braid is used, it should be very narrow. Cuffed trousers are not good form. Black derby, black felt, or straw hats and, in the city, an opera hat are worn. The shirt is white, of piqué or linen, semi-starched. The collar is wing or fold. The cravat is a black silk, satin, or moire bow-tie; fancy stripes or polka-dot pattern are not in good form. The gloves are a darker gray than those worn with formal evening clothes, altho not so dark as those for the street; they are of suède or buckskin. Shoes should be patent leather ties ; hose should be black silk. Black mother-of-pearl links, studs, and waistcoat buttons are required. The overcoat should be a black or an Oxford Chester-field.
Men are fond of the velvets and satins which are reminiscent of Beau Brummel. They have not as yet adopted his lace frills or satin breeches, but they enjoy house coats of black or dark brown velvet, worn without a vest and with a soft shirt and collar and dark trousers. Long dressing gowns of silk brocade satisfy a taste for luxury as one enjoys the open fire in solitary mood. Chinese Mandarin coats or Japanese kimonas with loose black satin pajamas are the fitting studio apparel of artists.