Clothing For Motoring, Golf, Country, And Traveling
( Originally Published 1924 )
The Norfolk jacket should appear jaunty without being freakish. Belts that come up under the arms and other grotesque effects should be avoided. The waistcoat may match the jacket or be knitted. A bit of bizarre color is not objectionable on the golf links or in other sports. Trousers should match the jacket or knickers of wool or natural or white linen may be worn. With knickers of linen a knitted jacket would be suitable. Long cream flannel trousers are worn for tennis. A cap, or a soft felt or a cloth hat, or, in hot countries, a helmet could be worn. Shirts are Cheviot, flannel, Oxford, English broadcloth, with soft cuffs or elbow length sleeves. The collar may be attached to the shirt or it may be a soft fold. A stock is worn for riding, a four-in-hand or a bow tie for other occasions.
Gloves may be the pull-on or button type of tan capeskin, chamois, buckskin, or heavy chamoisette. For riding, high boots; for other occasions, laced calf, black or brown, high or low, or sports shoes of white buckskin. Wool or silk-and-wool hose-heavy silk and ribbed lisle are worn with linen knickers. Plain gold or enamel cuff links and a wrist watch. A raglan top-coat of tweed or mixed fabric or a polo top-coat may be worn.
For a Week-End Visit
A man should wear a tweed sports suit and a soft felt hat for the journey and carry a top-coat for motoring. He should take a country suit that has both long trousers and knickers.
For evening, the Tuxedo or dinner coat is sufficient, unless there is a formal dinner or unless the visit is in the city where full evening dress will be required.
One or two sweaters, a sleeveless angora knitted waistcoat, a soft cap, brogan shoes, and a light, silk, English dressing gown are essential. If tennis is to be played, cream flannel trousers and a flannel coat, either of navy blue or with fancy stripes, could be added to this outfit.
Usher at a Day Wedding, Afternoon Call or Reception, Church, Funeral
Black or oxford-gray cutaway or frock coat may be worn. The father of the bride or groom wears a frock coat. The groom, best man, and ushers wear cutaway coats, probably black. The waistcoat may be white or of a color to match the coat. Gray and black striped trousers or black with white stripes may be worn with a frock coat. A high silk hat with an English cloth band of a conservative shape is chosen. The shirt is stiff, either linen or piqué. Wing or poke-style collar may be worn. Either a black and white four-in-hand, a cravat Ascot, or a black bow tie is proper. An elderly gentleman may wear a gray tie with a frock coat. The gloves are pearl suède. Patent leather shoes with dull kid tops are worn. Hose are black silk. Black pearls are correct for links, studs, and cravat pin. A Chesterfield or skirted overcoat completes the apparel.