Buying Your Gloves
( Originally Published 1924 )
Gloves are made from leather, fabric, and silk. The leathers used are kid, lambskin, mocha, Arabian sheep, cape, sheepskin, goatskin, chamois.
Kid is very soft, fine, strong, and flexible and does not rough up. This skin is made into dressy gloves, in all lengths, overseam and piqué seams. The kidskin which is used for making gloves comes from France, Italy, Germany, Austria, and Belgium. The young kids are cared for, so that nothing is allowed to cause any defects in the skins.
Lambskin is similar to kidskin in appearance, but is heavier and of a slightly coarser grain. How ever, tho it is finer, kidskin gives better wear than lambskin because it is stronger. Europe furnishes nearly all the lambskins, and the same care that is given to the kids is given to the lambs, so that nothing is allowed to cause any defects in their skins. Domestic lambskins have less care and are coarser, because of the climatic conditions.
Mocha, used for men's and women's gloves, is strong and gives some warmth. When this leather is cleansed it has a much lighter color. The mocha leather is made from the skin of the Arabian sheep. The finish is put on the skin or grain side.
Suède is a thin skin which has been put through a process termed suèding to give a soft velvety finish. In this process the grain is scraped off so that the skin will not be stiff, and the finish is put on the inside or flesh side of the skin, which then becomes the outside of the glove. Any skin, then, whether defective or not, can be used because the finish is put on the flesh side. Kidskin is used in making the softest and finest and lightest weight suède. Lambskin is used for the suède of heavier weight.
Capeskin is a heavy, rather tight-grained skin and is used for practical gloves for men, women, and children. Gloves of all lengths and in the prix and piqué seams are made from capeskin. This leather takes its name from Cape Town, Africa. It is sheepskin put through the American chrome tan-nage process to make the capeskin glove washable.
Cheverette is heavier "kid" made from goatskin. It is made in the prix and piqué seams.
Chamois—"Genuine chamois skin," so called commercially, is sheepskin. The skin is split into two thin skins and the flesh side is put through a fish-oil process which gives it its yellow color. The very fine chamois is from the lambskin. Gloves from this skin are washable, but they must be dried slowly on a glove form or on the hand, otherwise they become as stiff as a board. The seam of the chamois gloves may be prix or piqué.
Doeskin is the white or bleached chamois, chemically dressed.
Women's gloves in leather are carried in quarter sizes from five and one-half to eight. Misses' leather gloves are carried in quarter sizes from four and one-half to six and three--quarters. Size five and one-half in a lady's glove is equivalent to size six and one-quarter in a misses' glove. Children's gloves are carried in full size, from 0000 to seven, or one to fourteen years. The misses' glove is cut shorter through the palm and fingers and is a little narrower. A small short hand may be better fitted in the misses' glove.
Fabric gloves are chamois suède, which is a heavy brushed cotton with a horizontal stripe effect given by the weave. Warm gloves are made of a double thickness of the chamois suède material and are called Duplex gloves. Fabric gloves are worn as a service glove, so they should be devoid of all frills and fancies. These gloves are especially good for the hands that perspire or are coddled by a muff.
The sizes of fabric gloves do not run in quarters. Five and one-half to eight and one-half is the range in ladies' gloves. Misses sizes run from 00 to seven; in years, 00 is two years, four is eight years, and seven is fourteen years.
There is a difference in the qualities of the yarns from which silk gloves are made. Of the two methods of knitting, the tricot stitch is a distinct up-and-down stitch effect which is usually less ex-pensive; the Milanese knitting shows a criss-cross effect when held to the light. It takes twice as long to manufacture the latter weave, but a beautiful smooth material is the result.
Gloves of wool, which are more popular for sports, are made from woolen or worsted yarns, particularly from Scotch wool and cashmeres. They are also made from Alpaca and Angora yarn. The Alpaca yarn, which is made from the wool of the Peruvian sheep, is supremely satisfactory. This yarn is noted for its softness and luster. Some of the woolen gloves are knit in sections—the cuff, the hand, and the fingers—and are then joined together.
Women's woolen gloves come in half sizes, from six to eight and one-half. Misses gloves are cut shorter through the palm and fingers and a little narrower.
Three seams are used in making gloves. In the outseam, or prix, two flat edges are put together and stitched through giving a raw-edge effect. This seam is adaptable to the heaviest materials so desirable for gloves intended for general wear and sports. The piqué, or lapseam, has one piece lap-ping under the other, the two pieces stitched together, so that there is one raw edge on the upper, and one on the under side. This seam is well employed in manufacturing gloves of medium weight, and is used in the more dressy gloves. A piqué seam glove is best fitting for a short full hand. For the oversearn, two edges are put together, as in the prix seam; they are not stitched together with a straight stitch as in that finish, but are sewn over and over. The overseam is used in a light-weight dressy glove. This seam is the best fitting for a long slender hand.
Gloves come in five styles:
Clasp gloves are made from leather, fabric: and silk, and may have one and two clasps.
The strap-wrist glove is a tailored or sports model that slips over the hand and is tightened at the wrist by a strap. It is generally six-button in length, which means six inches from the base of the thumb to the end of the wrist. This glove may be made of leather, fabric, or silk, and is smart for street wear.
The gauntlet glove has an attached cuff which may be of different styles, widths, and stiffness. Leather and fabric are used for this model.
The Biarrits or slip-on is a glove made in leather. It slips over the hand with no opening at the wrist. The length may be six- or eight-button.
The Mousquetaire is a long glove of many varieties in length and material. It has an opening at the wrist which may be fastened with buttons or clasps. These gloves may be had in eight-, twelve-, sixteen-, twenty-, and twenty-four-button lengths. The lengths, to twelve-button, come in leather, fabric, and silk. The very long ones can be had in glacé, the smooth-finished, or in suède, the dull-finished kidskin.
Six finishes, stitchings put on in groups, are found on the backs of gloves. The, brasser is one draw or raised effect usually found on long gloves. It is sometimes used on inexpensive short gloves. The Paris-point consists of four rows of flat stitching and one raised in the center of the cluster. This is the most staple embroidery, altho not unusual ; it is put on the nicest gloves. The broad, full, or plump hand is slenderized by it. The three-row is of raised stitching or braid embroidery. This gives a heavy serviceable air to gloves. The four-row is of crochet or knot effect. The needle-back is a very smart effect of four rows. The spear-point has a raised arrow at the top or end of the embroidery nearest the wrist. This finish is used on street gloves.