Barber's And Domestic Hair Dyes And Tonics
( Originally Published Early 1900's )
I. BLACK HAIR DYE.— Eley's Best.—L Pyrogalic acid, 1 dr. distilled, pure rain-water, 6 oz.
II. Nitrate of silver, crystals, 2 drs. ; strong aqua ammonia, 1 oz.; gum arabic, dissolved in a little water, 1 dr. ; mix all.
Directions.—First apply No I, and let it dry; then No. II, and let dry. And if by carelessness there are any spots on the face, take them off with No. I of the "Brown." Alcohol will take them off, but not as nicely as the sulphuret of the next dye.
2. Hair Dye — Brown, or a Lighter Shade. — I. Sulphuret of potash, 1 oz.; distilled or pure rain water, 1/2 pt.
II. Use the No. II of the "Black," — in other words, the dyes are the same.
Directions.—Apply No. I, the sulphuret, and let it dry; then apply No. II of the "Black" until you get a little darker shade than you desire; then re-:apply the No. I, sulphuret, which leaves the desired shade by making it a little lighter than it was.
Remarks.—With care in this, you can make the beard or hair a very light brown, or quite a dark one; for if you get it darker than you wish, wash right off with the luster below. These dyes and the 1st luster below are from my friend C. S. Eley, a practical barber, and are very reliable; but it needs care and a little experience to work well with hair dyes.
1. LUSTRAL OIL. — Hair Tonic, or Sea Foam Alcohol, 1 pt. ; glycerine, 1 oz. ; tinct. cantharides, 2 drs. ; aqua ammonia, 1 oz.; rain water, 5 ozs. ; mix. Directions-Pour upon the head, or into the hand and apply to the head, rubbing well until the foam subsides. Apply more or less, freely at first, as the condition of the scalp demands. It dissolves the dandruff; is good for a sore scalp, chapped hands, etc. For sore scalp apply once daily; for chapped hands, night and morning. See remarks above as to its reliability. I keep it in the office, and have used it many times.
2. Barbers' Luster, or Hair Tonic — Bowers'.—Alcohol, 1 qt, distilled or pure rain water, 1 1/4 pts. ; glycerine, 1 Oz.; aqua ammonia, oz., or just enough, when shaken together, to make it look milky or a little white. This receipt is from Henry Bowers, with whom I have shaved about 2 years. It is not quite as strong as Eley's, but cleans the scalp nicely. He has used it on my head with satisfaction.
1. BOB HEATER'S SHAMPOO—Hair Tonic-Very Strong. —First put oil of sweet almonds, 4 ozs., into alcohol; 1 pt., and put in oil of bergamot, 2 drs., or 1 dr., with oil citronella, 1 Jr., when it can be had; them add aqua ammonia, 4 ozs.; rye whiskey 8 ozs.; gum camphor, 1/2 oz.; mix. Shake before applying, and rub in thoroughly.
Remarks.—"Bob" Heater, a barber of Dresden, Ohio, where I married, and afterwards lived 14 yrs., obtained the first part of this recipe from a Mr. Squires, and put to it what we call the addenda or added portion, which makes it a strong and efficient tonic, to be used in cases where there is much falling out of the hair, or if considerable dandruff is present. He used it upon my own hair during the winter of '74, which myself, wife, and son spent in the "old home." It eradicated the dandruff and stopped the falling hair, and I still have an excellent head of hair at nearly 68 years of age, while at that time I thought it was all going. He had equal success with some others in a similar condition.
I. HAIR OIL, OR DRESSING —Very Fine.—Castor oil and cologne alcohol, each 1/2pt.; oil of lemon-grass, 1 dr.; oil of bergamot,1/2 dr.; mix.
Remarks. When in Detroit a year or two ago, a barber applied some oil to my hair, after asking, "some oil, sir?" and the perfume being superior to what my home barber used, I inquired its composition; and being referred to his druggist, the above was the result. I have never smelled a nicer perfume. Barbers often use 2 ozs. of castor oil to 1 oz. of alcohol, when they desire an oil to help keep the hair in position. Even 2 to 1, like this, it is not gummy or sticky. But for ladies to keep their hair crimped, see " Crimps in damp weather." The next has 2 to 1 of castor oil.
2. Hair Dressing—Striking in its Perfume.— Castor oil, 1 pt. cologne alcohol, 1/2 pt.; oil of lavender (English is claimed to be the best), 2 drs.; oil of bergamot, 3 drs. oil of citronella, 4 drs. ; mix.
3. Hair Dressing that Turns Gray Hair to a Dark Shade, Without Lead (Cheap and Very Nice.) - Glycerine and rose-water, equal parts; say 1 or 2 ozs. each. Work well into the roots of the hair at each morning's dressing.
Remarks. It is remarkable what a change in the shade of gray hair will soon take place by the use of this simple, but very nice dressing. I speak from personal experience and knowledge.
4. Hair and Hand Dressing—Home Made Perfume Very Fine. —Put rose petals (leaves of the flowers), or geranium leaves, or the flowers or leaves of any other perfume plants (the mignonette and heliotrope would be fine), that you desire into a bottle, pressing the bottle pretty full, then put in glycerine, all the bottle will hold; cork, or if a glass-stoppered bottle all the better. In 3 or 4 weeks the aroma (perfume) will all be extracted by the glycerine, when it may be stained or not, as you choose. Alcohol will do the same, but it is not equal to the glycerine. DIRECTIONS: Pour a few drops of this perfumed glycerine into a bowl of water, and wash the face, hands and hair. Bay rum or a little spirits of camphor, poured into the water for the same purpose is cleansing and fine. My wife always used spirits of camphor for these purposes, with entire satisfaction. Washing the scalp once or twice a week with a weak solution of salt, in water, strengthens the hair follicles and skin, rubbing well in, after drying the hair with a brush as well as the ends of the fingers,
SHAMPOO OR WASH—To Cleanse the Hair and Scalp -Salts of tartar, powdered borax, aqua ammonia, each 1 oz.; rain water, 1 qt.; mix. Directions—Rub well into the roots of the hair once a week. Good for a tettered spot on any part of the body. Applying freely, (after using the hair dressing above) of glycerine and rose water. A wash. of sage tea and borax, say 1 or 2 ozs., powdered to 1 qt. of the tea, is claimed to cleanse the scalp, make the hair grow nicely and keep it soft.
1. HAIR DRESSING WITH BAY RUM NICER THAN ALCOHOL.-" Dr. Cap," of New London, Conn., gives "Angeline," of the Detroit Free Press Household, the following:
Bay rum, imported, 6 ozs. ; castor oil 2 ozs.; tinct. of cantharides, 1/2 oz. Perfume with anything you wish; will not only be good but harmless,"
Remarks.—Oil of bergamot, 1 dr., will give it a nice flavor, or oil of lemon-grass, or of heliotrope, 1 dr., would be " just splendid," as the girls say.
1. HAIR RESTORATIVE — Which has Raised a Thick Head of Hair on a Bald Scalp: Notwithstanding there are those who claim it cannot be done, there are those also who claim it can. The following is claimed by a physician to have done it upon his own head. It will do no harm, and on some heads it will, no doubt, produce a head of hair "where the hair ought to grow," but does not, while in some cases it may not. It is owing to the condition of the hair follicles. If inflammation has destroyed them there is no hopes; while if the work is only in progress it will; so it is no harm to try it. It is:
" Castor oil and alcohol, each 2 ozs. ; tinct. cantharides and rain water, each 1 oz.; oil of bergamot, 1 dr.; mix, and use with a stiff brush."
Remarks.—He does not say how often to apply. I should say twice a week; but I do not like a stiff brush, but rather the finger ends to rub it in thoroughly. If it excites any inflammation on the scalp use it only once a week. It will be noticed it is quite strong, so keep an eye to its action, so as not to inflame the scalp.
2. Hair Wash or Restorative—Italian. I will give one more wash or dressing, easily made, and very satisfactory. I have used it. It is:
Syrup of rosemary, 2 qts. ; liquid potassa, 1/2 oz. ; aqua ammonia, 1 oz.; oil: of sweet almonds, 2 1/2 ozs. ; castor oil, 1 oz.; good whiskey, 1 1/2 pts.
Remarks—It looks a little milky at first, but soon clears up. Shake when used. This is good for dandruff and to clean the scalp.
3. Hair Restorative—To Turn Gray Hair to a Dark Color' Said to be Hall & King's.- Lac sulphur, sugar of lead, each 1 dr. muriate of soda (common salt), 2 drs.; glycerine 2 ozs. ; bay rum, 8 ozs.; Jamaica rum, 4 ozs. ; soft water, 1 pt. Shake well before using and keep in a-dark place.
Remarks.—Preparations containing lead sometim effects the muscles of the eye-lids causing them to droop. I think if only used once a week, even wetting the scalp will not do this; but if the hair only is moistened, it is all sufficient, not wetting the head or scalp, I believe it will change the hair to a dark color, even without the sugar of lead; then there would be no possible danger. I obtained this of my cousin, Dr. A. B. Mason.
1. BANDOLINE—For the Hair—As Used in India.—Quince seed (which, in India, is called behdana), 1/2 oz.; essence of bitter almonds, or any perfuming oil, a few drops only ; water 1 pl.; alcohol 3 ozs. Directions. —Pour the water, hot, upon the behdana, and let stand over night; strain; put the essence of perfuming oil in the alcohol, and add; then bottle, and keep corked.
The ladies know that the miscellaneous properties of the behdana (quince seed) enables them to maintain any desired position of the hair, by first wetting with it and keeping the hair as desired until dry; but probably are not so well aware that the alcohol prevents it from spoiling by keeping it corked.
Remarks.—The word, bandoline, comes from the French word bande or -bandeau, meaning a band or belt, because the hair has to be kept in position by a band of thin cloth, or better, a bit of old lace, to allow the air to come in contact with the hair until dry. When quince seed are not obtainable, the following makes a good substitute:
2. Crimps in Damp Weather — To Keep in Place. — A very good bandoline is made by the use of gum Arabic or gum tragacanth (the Arabic is most use while the tragacanth is the best), say 1/2 oz. powdered, pouring on just enough boiling water to dissolve it, then adding alcohol enough to make it rather thin, (about 1 oz.). Let stand open all night, then bottle for use. Directions --Wet the bangs with this mixture at bed time, and twist or curl the bangs upon the forehead, as desired; then put over a bit of lace, or gauze-band (French bandeau), to keep it in position till dry, or rather, till morning; then remove the bandeau, and pull the crimps out with the fingers until they are soft and fluffy." It does not injure the hair, nor will the bandoiine of quince seeds above. It will not come out, even in damp weather. If there is any gum on the hair, rub it off with the fingers, and if it looks dull, touch the fingers to a little of the glycerine and rose-water dressing above, and pass them, lightly over the hair to give it a shiny appearance.
Hair Curling Liquid.—Salt of tartar (which is carbonate of potassa), 1/4 oz., aqua ammonia and cologne, each, 1 dr. : glycerine, oz.; alcohol, 1 1/2 ozs., distilled or pure soft water, 1 pt. If you wish it to have color, add 1/2 dr: of powdered cochineal. Shake daily for a week, and filter, or strain. Directions—To use it, moisten the hair with it and adjust it loosely, as it dries it shows its tendency to curl; then run the fingers through it to lighten it up, as you desire.