( Originally Published Early 1900's )
On the approach to Suza, and the ascent of the hill, the road is lined with fine aged trees; while at every turn, this little city, with its surrounding rocks, and romantic castle, is presented anew, through arches of far-spreading boughs. In our descent, we could not but be conscious of a milder atmosphere, and of all that intimates to the senses the approach to a new and more pleasing region. We looked forward with sensations of composure and delight, to the prospect of travelling through the great and fertile valley of Piedmont; and felt pleasure in being relieved from difficulties, trivial, but vexatious. The Doria Riparia, a beautiful mountain stream, which owes its source to the lake on Mont Cenis, comes dashing and foaming amongst the rocks, and, passing through Suza, seeks its way along the plains below. The approach to this little city is by a narrow gorge. Upon a hill, which commands the city, stands an ancient castle, of a grand and imposing aspect; and below;this, through an opening in the rocks, you enter by a military gate, where your passport is required, and your baggage searched; regulations by which the traveller is continually tormented.
In passing vast boundaries, seemingly planted by nature as barriers between nations, the mind is powerfully awakened to expectation. Every object in a new country, whether in the scenery, or in the customs and manners of the people, excites fresh animation in the traveller. The eye wanders abroad, eager in search of novelty; and the excitement of the mind gives additional charms to the surrounding objects, and new zeal to the spirit of inquiry. We did not therefore enter Suza with-out experiencing such emotion;-we were treading, for the first time, on Italian ground, and were prepared to behold every object with feelings of curiosity and interest. The first view of the inhabitants of this little city, gave us the impression of an amiable and gentle people. It was evening; and the citizens, priests, and soldiers, were sauntering through the dusty streets,in little friendly groups, looking upon the strangers, not with the stare of stupid curiosity, or the smile of self-complacency, but with a modest, kind, and benignant aspect; all ranks usually touching, or taking off their hats, in reply to the slightest symptom of courtesy. The town of Suza is small, and was formerly fortified, of which there are some remains, although the citadel is demolished. The church, which is respectable, and well decorated, is built upon the ruins of some vast Roman edifice. There is a fine triumphal arch, still entire, to be seen in a garden.