|Antiques Digest||Browse Auctions||Appraisal||Antiques And Arts News||Home|
Brief History Of Upholstery
Tools And Workshop Requirements
Types And Styles Of Frames
Springs And Spring Units
Measuring, Cutting, And Preparing Covers
Basic Principles Of
Types Of Stitched Edges And Fronts
Making An Easy Chair With Cushion Seat
Second Stuffing-Calico Covers
Cable Springing And Latex Cushions
Occasional Chair-Cable Sprung
A Bedroom Chair
Modern Tensile-Sprung Easy-Chair
Adaptable Settee Unit
( Originally Published 1961 )
This type of chair is very comfortable and is used extensively in the home as a dining-chair, or in the office or showroom. The frame is quite a simple one, a frame that could be tackled by oneself, but the frame-maker will turn them out more quickly and expertly. It requires the minimum amount of stuffing which is very convenient for re-upholstering or only having a change of cover. Note the rebated edges of the side rails and the front rail fixed at a lower level. This lowering of the front rail enables one to include what is virtually a spring edge. This is accomplished by putting three springs close to each other over the edge of the frame, thus giving comfort and softness behind the knees whilst sitting. The cable springs used in this case are material covered and are hooked on to a web-like tape with eyelets punched in. This tape is nailed along the rebated side rails, the fine nails being driven in around the rim of the eyelets. Four or five nails are enough around each eyelet. A block placed under the rail whilst driving in the nails will safeguard against any damage to the woodwork. A lining cover is made for the springs covering the main area of the seat. This is done by hemming the sides and making a slot at each end through which the last and the first cable springs respectively pass. The three edge springs are covered separately and with the cover material proper. A piece of material is cut the width of the seat, plus an inch for side hems, and long enough to go right round the springs and tack under the rail at the front. The hemming is done and the cover is back-tacked on the top ridge of the front rail. It is then taken over the front of the first cable spring and under and over the other two springs to come down to the front and be tacked off under the front rail.
The back is webbed in the orthodox way, interlacing and folding over the webbing. Then a piece of spring canvas is tacked over, stretching it as tightly as possible by hand, and again hemming the canvas when tacking off. The inside edges of the back rail should be rasped to take away the sharp edge. The canvas is covered with a piece of preformed foam rubber and covered with a calico. The cover, which requires no preparation after cutting off, is tacked on the underside of the bottom back rail and strained towards the top rail where it is temporarily tacked, as also are the sides. When satisfied that no further adjustment is needed, the whole of the cover can be tacked off. The outside back is then set in position and either slip-stitched or gimp-pinned right round.
The cushion seat consists of an interior of foam rubber with a calico covering. The two panels and borders are cut to size allowing 2 in. for seaming. The material to form the piping is also cut off and, as for all piping material, it should be cut on the cross. The cushion cover is machined up with a piped edge around both top and bottom panels, leaving one end open to admit the foamrubber interior. The mouth of the cushion is now slipstitched to complete the job.
An alternative for the cushion case is to make it a loose cover. This is made up in the same way except that the open end has a strengthening piece of material sewn on the inside border on to which are sewn hooks, whilst the adjoining panel has a piece that carries the eyes or bars for the hooks to fasten up the opening.